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The Gecko

5.9, Trad, Sport, 120 ft (36 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 15 votes
FA: Rob Griz
Colorado > 10 Mile Canyon > Sunshine Buttress (ak…

Description

This is a great mixed line following steepening slab to a fine crack. You could continue up another pitch (25-30m) to the top through easy 5.6-7 trad climbing to a 2-bolt anchor atop Zig Zag. Climb on in honor of the "Gecko", you will be missed, catch you on the other side, buddy! Can Do is the 2nd pitch of this route that heads up through broken terrain to a 2-bolt anchor.

Location

This is the 2nd route from the left edge of the East Wall where the approach trail hits the wall. The first bolt is 20' up on the slab. A 2 bolt top anchor gets you down the first pitch. A 70m rope just makes it down this single pitch. If doing both pitches, you could rap the 3 anchors on Zig Zag with a 60m rope.

Protection

7 bolts, Camalots #0.3-1. It has a 2 bolt anchor at the end of the pitch. A 70m rope required. Bring a standard rack if doing the optional 2nd pitch to the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking up Gecko.<br>
[Hide Photo] Looking up Gecko.
Looking down Gecko.
[Hide Photo] Looking down Gecko.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mike Bannister
  5.9-
[Hide Comment] Good slab climbing with a little spice. Remember your small cams/nuts or it will be very spicy. Griz, I think your 70 is longer than mine. We had to use an intermediary anchor to get down. My rope did not quite hit the ground. Aug 21, 2013
rob bauer
Nederland, CO
 
[Hide Comment] My 70m wouldn't reach either; we rap'd climbers left to a Zig Zag anchor, then down. Sep 24, 2015
jbarnum
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] Really great route - seemed a little 5.9+ at the crux with marginal protection, but I could just be soft. Overall worth it. Can reach the ground with a 70m if you swing over to climber’s right. Jun 21, 2020
[Hide Comment] On the upper,steeper section, I placed a #7 Stopper endwise, a green Alien, a black #5 Metolius, and a black Alien to supplement the widely spaced bolts. The black Metolius was secure in the only place where a #1 Camalot could come close to fitting. This is where my overcammed 1# was barely held by the placement. The crux felt like 9+. Sep 3, 2022