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Kauk-kulator

5.11c, Trad, 82 ft (25 m),  Avg: 3.9 from 18 votes
FA: Ron Kauk, John Yablonsky, 1975
California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Lower Merced Ri… > Ba. The Rostrum
Warning Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations. DetailsDrop down

Description

Amazing splitter, very aesthetic line. It is overhanging, dry in light rain and hard work for every foot of it 82 ft length.
Climb started from big ledge( approach from right)
crux first 3 moves passing fingers, off-fingers and super-tight hands - to good hand jam.
Than dream hands ( yellow cam size) .
Than wide pod 4-4.5" inches wide and about two body length , which can be crux for some ( rated 10c)
If you do levitation with your right knee above left ( right side in) it can be right rating.. My knee is not big , but it was not in, I did more like calf lock and hands stacks.
After the ow pod climbing continue about 20 more feet of 5.9-5.10

Location

same approach as for Blind Faith. just before the ledge on West wall one can see perfect splitter. Approach base of the climb from right surmounting big ledge

Protection

single from yellow alien to #5 camelot.
3#2 camelots

Plus you need some gear for belayer anchor (#3, #1, 0.75)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Steep
[Hide Photo] Steep
Cruxy off the ledge
[Hide Photo] Cruxy off the ledge
Glory hands before the pod
[Hide Photo] Glory hands before the pod

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Alexey Zelditch
San Jose
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] some ST discussion about this route:
supertopo.com/climbing/thre… Aug 13, 2012
Bryan G
June Lake, CA
[Hide Comment] Anyone know if this has a second pitch with anchor? The crack keeps going and looks quality. Oct 28, 2014
Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Echoing question above. Crack above looks high quality. Came here to find out what it is. Nov 12, 2014
Ben Sachs
Las Vegas, NV
 
[Hide Comment] This is a great route worthy of more traffic.

Similar to people above, I'm curious if the 2nd pitch has been done?

Also, I'm considering adding a bolt to make a direct start to this pitch. The climbing immediately below the route (getting to the big ledge directly from the ground) is really cool face climbing and not any harder than the original route. Has this been led? It would be unprotected, but adding a single bolt would make it safe. This would allow leading from the ground instead of having to traverse in and build a belay. Potential choppers please chime in, or forever hold your piece.... Oct 17, 2022