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Routes in World Wall

Aborigine S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
BLM-3 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
BLM-4 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
BLM-5 S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
BLM-6 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
BLM-7 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
BLM-8 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bad Guy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Ice S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Black Is All We Feel T,S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Bust the Move S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bust the Rhythm S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Californication S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Californicator S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Chicxulub S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Chronic S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dairy Freeze S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Deluge S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Devil's Advocate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Disincarnate S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dr. Evil S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Dreaming of a Life of Ease S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
End of the World S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Enigma S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Extended Evil S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Extendorigine S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
False Idol S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Flatliner S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Gerbil Killer S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Girls in the Gym S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hang It Out To Dry S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hydrophobia S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Illness/Extended Illness S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Jealous God S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jug or Not S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lizard King S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Lost Horizons S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Megatherion S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Oedipal Complex S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Opening Act S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Oval Orifice S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pornification S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Pornstar S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Propaganda S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Psycho Wussy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Psychosomatic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rainy Day Woman S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Reptiles and Amphetamines S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slaborigine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slug Lover S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Son of Jesus S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sweet Tooth S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Technorigine S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Viagro S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Vudu Guru S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wide World of Fitness S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Type: Sport, 140 ft
FA: Erik Kubiak (I think? Or Mike Orr?)
Page Views: 226 total, 3/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Aug 13, 2012
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

What could possibly be better than climbing Chronic? How about climbing past two more anchors above the top of Chronic for a 40+ meter pitch? While the 25 feet of climbing to the second anchor (AKA Lizard Prince; shares the anchor with Illness/Extended Illness) adds little in the way of difficulty, the 50 or so feet to the third anchor contains a couple of potent cruxes. It is also possible to approach the top via Extended Illness (or, if you want it to be even harder, Extended Evil!). Confusing? Go climb them all and sort out the details! They're worth it! I can't remember if this is Lizard King or Lizard Queen; I guess we'll stick with the Jim Morrison reference until someone can clarify. As with many of the routes here, I'm not really sure who climbed it first.

Location

Start on Chronic and keep going up until the bolts stop. Descent is with a 70m cord and requires you to pull the rope through at one of the two lower anchors. Tie knots in the end just in case!

Protection

Bolts. You will need 5 quickdraws for the very top part as it isn't fixed. Anchors on top may or may not have lowering hardware so bring your least favorite leaver biners along just in case.

Photos

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I think consensus is 13b/c. Jan 30, 2014