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Routes in Quiquillon

La Jungle en Folie S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Le Diedre Sud S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Voyage, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 468 total, 7/month
Shared By: adam winslow on Aug 11, 2012
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

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Description

If you are climbing in France, DO NOT MISS THIS GEM! This route is spectacular! I happened upon it while looking for a different climb and without knowing anything but the name (painted on the rock at the start), couldn't resist such a beautiful line. Their is a difficult traverse over a bulge on the second pitch that was the crux for me. Those that don't like cracks will find the finishing crack to be the crux.

Description from the local guidebook which I found in the gearshop after climbing:
"A succession of cracks and corners. It's up to you to balance and find good stems... Watch out at P1 and P2, the rings are impeccable but you need to be able to climb between them. P4 Superb slab with holes leads to yellow crack overhanging the village. Magnificent and really impressive. In summer, this route is in the shade in the morning. Between seasons, it's better to climb it in the afternoon sunshine."

Location

Approach by heading up the main trail past the cemetery at the back of the town of Orpierre. When you reach Le Belleric the trail will take an Eastward direction accross the top of the gully/valley. Follow this until you reach the base of the west side of the South pillar. This should be the near the base of the highest point of the cliff. Find a short trail that leads uphill to the base of the climb. If you traverse around to the far side of the south pillar, you have gone too far. The name of the climb "La Voyage" is painted at the start just inside of the large left facing dihedral formed by the headwall and the pillar.

At the top of P3, before the slab, You will find arrows directing you to go straight up, not right which is another route.

Descent: Rappel down Grand Jardine (recommended by the guidebook I photographed after). I don't know where that is but We walked off without incident.

To walk off continue to the summit with via ferrata for protection. Continue walking the left side of the ridge until a light tail appears to your right (I'm told there's one to the left as well that works fine for descent). Take the right trail that crosses up and over the ridge and work your way around and down the mountain and eventually back to the approach trail. Walk-off took slightly over an hour. I'm sure the rappel is faster but my preference is to walk off summits.

Protection

Quickdraws for the excellent glue-in bolts.

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