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North Face
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British C1 PG13
Avg: 1 from 1
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Routes in Sundance Pinnacle
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East Face, Center T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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East Face, Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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North Face T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C1 PG13 |
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Northeast Arete T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Oso Scary (North Face free) T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Right Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, Alpine, 550 ft (167 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Tipton-Hartman |
| Page Views: | 1,065 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Matt Hartman on Aug 7, 2012 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
This route seems to be a first. We saw bail tat on top of P1, which is the only pitch that seems very probable once you get up there. This route could go free at a hard grade and (with some cleaning of lichen) would make a proud, if short, free route in the area that is right next to the trail.
p1-5.9 climb the corner, passing loose blocks on the right to a stance with some old tat.
p2-5.11a climb up and right on cracks and around a corner to slightly under-protected 5.10, then left up seam corner to right traverse 5.11 a-b to a ledge. Belay with hand size pieces.
p3-5.11a-b climb seam to right which protects to crux (which doesn't protect very well), moving right to ledge with hard moves.
p-4 5.10 or 5.11, C1 head up good crack for 20 feet, move right on tiny gear to a corner and aid. Move past corner to ledge. This pitch is likely 5.12 and with cleaning would be overhanging fingers and face holds with good pro.
p-5 5.10 or C1 move up flaring corner to summit.
Walk off.
p1-5.9 climb the corner, passing loose blocks on the right to a stance with some old tat.
p2-5.11a climb up and right on cracks and around a corner to slightly under-protected 5.10, then left up seam corner to right traverse 5.11 a-b to a ledge. Belay with hand size pieces.
p3-5.11a-b climb seam to right which protects to crux (which doesn't protect very well), moving right to ledge with hard moves.
p-4 5.10 or 5.11, C1 head up good crack for 20 feet, move right on tiny gear to a corner and aid. Move past corner to ledge. This pitch is likely 5.12 and with cleaning would be overhanging fingers and face holds with good pro.
p-5 5.10 or C1 move up flaring corner to summit.
Walk off.
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