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Long Shadow
5.11b A0,
Sport, Aid, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade III,
Avg: 3.1 from 17
votes
FA: James Garret
Utah
> W Desert
> Ibex
> Shadow Buttress
Description
Ascends Arete 100 feet right of Absorption. Mostly bolted 5.9 climbing with 5.12 (A0) cheatable crux near the top.
Protection
10-12 draws
Salt Lake City, UT
You come to a nice ledge at the top of the climb & there is an option 5.12c/d pitch(felt like 5.14) follow the obvious bolt line. The first two moves which seemed scarier than they actually were due to how high up you are, but can easily be aided by pulling up on your QD's and punching it to the top.
Best time to climb this is from 5-8PM, otherwise it's like touching a hot frying pan, worth catching the sunset on the rap down.
Brilliant Climb! Sep 15, 2014
SLC, UT
Pleasant Grove, UT
Salt Lake City, UT
The bolts are all in good shape, but I, nevertheless, plan on replacing the old Leeper hangers with more modern equipment soon to calm peoples nerves a bit more:). A heady lead for 5.9 leaders. One of my favorite climbs at Ibex. Nov 5, 2017
Salt Lake City, UT
There are run outs but they’re not bad, though they are probably unfriendly towards a newer 5.9/10 leader.
Great work JG! Oct 14, 2019