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Routes in Penstemon Dome

Captain America T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Zukes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Rachel's Garden S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rope-A-Dope S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Song of the Earth T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sunday Hoe-down T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Greg Vernon, Mike Baca 1987
Page Views: 1,320 total · 20/month
Shared By: Steve Gade on Aug 3, 2012
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Start by climbing the crack (5.8) in the center of the dome. Belay on a spacious ledge by slinging a chockstone at the back or build an anchor near the front to avoid rope drag.

Pitch 2 (5.7) takes you left around a corner and then angles up and left along an obvious crack. Build a belay behind a very thick flake/block but consider backing it up in the nearby crack.

Pitch 3 (5.10a) opens with the technical crux and then backs off to 5.8 lay-back past two bonsai trees. If you have a 60m rope, belay under the roof (continue with a 70m).

Pull the roof (bolt) on Pitch 4 (5.8)and lay-back to a bolted belay.

Pitch 5 is the psychological crux with tender-footed 5.8 slab climbing which angles left over crusty granite past (5) 3/16 inch bolts.

Three raps (TWO ROPES!) take you down to the left of the route or you may walk off.


This is the most obvious natural line up the middle of Penstemon dome. Start 100' left of the large sugar pine.


Standard rack