Band of Gypsys
Avg: 3 from 4 votes
|Type:||Sport, 130 ft|
|Page Views:||749 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||Darren in Vegas on Aug 3, 2012|
Mount Charleston Wilderness Area Details
Much of this area is in the Mount Charleston Wilderness Area, learn which crags are within our outside of it before you go. See the BLM Fact Sheetblm.gov/sites/blm.gov/files… for a good overview of what it protects and what that limits, and the Forest Service pagefs.usda.gov/detailfull/htnf… for other information.
DescriptionWhen originally done, this route was said to be 2 pitches. These days the route usually gets done in one long pitch. Don't worry if you don't have an 80 meter rope, since there is an anchor in the middle of the route.
The route starts at a crack in a corner that leads up to a large pod about 25 feet up, where you will find the first bolt. The climbing is easy, but if you are nervous about the first bolt being so high, the crack would take some gear.
Once at the first bolt, turn onto the face with some tough moves. If you do the route in two pitches, this would be the crux of the first pitch. From here climb up past three more bolts to the small stance below the head wall.
Once here, climb up past 12 more bolts up through a killer sustained section of sidepulls and stemming.