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Routes in Zoe

11b Staples finish S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
In the Firing Line T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jeff and the Giant Reach S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Oscar's Slab S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Restless S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Staples of the Gluten Intolerant S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zoe S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Chris Small, Kevin Henshaw, 2012
Page Views: 438 total, 7/month
Shared By: Nick Wilder on Aug 2, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

A nice route with thoughtful moves over steep but small roofs. Amazing this wasn't claimed before 2012.

Climb the dihedral to the right of Zoe all the way up. It's quite easy for 25 feet until you hit the first roof. There's no bolts before this point, so you need a small rack (up to 1" pieces) to get here.

Clip the first bolt and surmount the first roof with good stemming for your feet. Cruise to the next roof, clip bolt, and crank over it (crux). Relatively easier climbing from there to the top chains.

Protection

small rack to 1". 3 bolts. rappel chains.

Photos

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Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
Really fun route and a nice mix of trad and sport.

I was very happy to have a #1 camalot available after the second bolt. There are still some hard moves up there and you are well above the bolt at that point in time. A #1 camalot goes in perfectly in a horizontal.

I suggest a single rack from tight fingers to #3 camalot. Just save a #1 for up top :)

Be aware the anchors are RIGHT of the last bolt. I blindly pulled over the top right above the last bolt and had to perform some shenanigans to get back over to the anchor. Aug 15, 2017
ihategrigris
Vancouver, BC
ihategrigris   Vancouver, BC
The Squamish select book calls in a 5.10a, but who knows? It feels a little harder than Zoe.

There's at least one place to put a #3 camalot, and depending on how much gear you want to place, it's a smart move to double up on everything from blue to red in the Metolius mastercams.

Fun route! My first 10a (or b?) trad onsite. Aug 22, 2013
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b
I was glad to have a rack to #2 camalot, and a second #1 would have been even nicer. Not sure why the book neglects to mention this- its obvious from the base. Jul 20, 2013