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Routes in Dinas Cromlech

Cemetery Gates T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cenotaph Corner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dives/Better Things T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flying Buttress T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Left Wall T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 275 ft, 5 pitches
FA: J Menlove Edwards, 1931
Page Views: 1,179 total, 18/month
Shared By: Rob Lilley on Jul 31, 2012
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

An essential classic. Steep and exposed, but furnished with the regular occurrence of positive holds.

Pitch 1 (55ft) Head up the middle of the buttress.

Pitch 2 (60ft) Continue up to the larger pinnacles.

Pitch 3 (65ft) Drop down in the gap and climb the steep wall on the left.

Pitch 4 (50ft) Follow the slab rightwards to a ledge.

Pitch 5 (50ft) The awkward chimney on the right is thankfully short lived.

Location

Start just right of the prominent quartz exposure at the foot of the castellated ridge, which forms the right edge of the cliff.

Descent: Walk round to the back of the cliff and follow the climber's left hand side back down via an easy (if a little loose) trail.

Protection

Standard set of nuts and a couple of mid size cams for the glorious pockets available protect the route perfectly.

Photos

Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.5
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.5
Just think, with a 70m rope you could almost do it one pitch....have I made my point? Subscribe to history, embrace it...you can't do it any better than Menlove Edwards, no matter how hard you try. Oct 27, 2012
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.5
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.5
Thanks for posting Rob. Aug 29, 2012
Rob Lilley
Greensboro, NC
 
Rob Lilley   Greensboro, NC
 
Easily the best 5.5 in the country in my opinion, it's steep and exposed, the positions are amazing and the juggy pockets are the stuff of dreams. Aug 1, 2012