Type: Trad, Aid, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Manny Rangel, Arjun Heimsath
Page Views: 473 total · 6/month
Shared By: manuel rangel on Jul 31, 2012
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

Getting through the thin crack up high is difficult. We aided it but it would go free with hard tips and fingers. The first part of route to a pod is not too difficult; center very difficult then the last third of route where it goes left on a rail is exposed and has some brittle rock next to great rock (pro is solid).

Location

Just upstream and same side as Anti crag routes. Wander up left side of wall forming the tower; starts on easy slab (4th class) then easy 5th at a chimney to tree belay. Steep 4th to shoulder/ledge with tower on it. Climb north face of tower. Rap bolts get you below the ledge to top of chimney. Rap off tree to ground.

Protection

Double C3s, sm-med nuts, double #.5 to #2

Bolted anchor/single 60m

Photos

arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10+ C1
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10+ C1
Good eye on finding this tower, Manny! Am guessing that the thin tips crack will go free at 12 or 12+ with solid gear to protect, as our aiding through it proved. Will make for a nice free route for sure. Aug 1, 2012
manuel rangel
Arizona
  5.10+ C1
manuel rangel   Arizona
  5.10+ C1
Still thinking about a piton mid way up the crack. It would provide solid pro through the struggle and keep the pro in line above. Aug 3, 2012
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
A pin, really? No pins. Pins suck after a while. If you want permanent gear drill a bolt. Which reminds me I need to start a thread about using pins for anything other than aid to drill a bomber bolt.

Looks like a cool route Manny. Go with small cams and double them up at each placement. Aug 3, 2012
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10+ C1
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10+ C1
Yeah, I have to agree, no pins. After aiding that crack the way I did I feel good about the pro in it and a stronger climber than I will likely not flinch at the 12+ free moves needed to get it clean on gear. Or, if you want someone like me to be more likely to at least try to do it free, then I'd go with the bolt off to the side -- here's a deal for you, I'll carry my light Bosch down next time and will be happy to do it while hanging on a couple of those small nuts! Aug 5, 2012
manuel rangel
Arizona
  5.10+ C1
manuel rangel   Arizona
  5.10+ C1
Eric you have a point. This is soft rock and the pin wouldn't be very reliable after a season or two.

Still, I would rather have it bolt and pin free. It would be for me since I can't conceive of hanging and placing gear at the crux. I'll leave it as is and wait for a 12+ thin crack afficionado! Aug 15, 2012