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Routes in Southwest Corner

Bat Shit Crazy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Birthday Pickle T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bolder Problem in Space (free) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Boulder Problem in the Sky T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Golden Showers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Great Gig in the Sky T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hanging Gardens T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Hard Up for Cracks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lopper, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
S.O.S. T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shithouse Rat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Under the Big-Top T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Vaporizer, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
White Powder! T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FA Diff Ritchie, Bob Rotert '73, FFA Bob Rotert, Bill St. John '75
Page Views: 2,688 total, 41/month
Shared By: TomCaldwell on Jul 31, 2012 with updates
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Seasonal Falcon Closure Details

Description

A unique route for Whitesides because it takes a plethora of gear. Unlike most of the face routes at Whitesides, BPitS is a crack/corner feature. This route stays dry due to the large roof cap. It also faces west, so it is great on summer mornings. The very large white left-facing corner is easy to spot from the approach.

From the approach trail, head near the base of the corner and rack up in the woods. Once racked up, make a step across a gully to get to a ledge at the base of the route. The start is a chimney that turns into a right facing corner. Climb up the chimney and corner, then make a tricky move left to get to the ledge at the base of the main left facing corner. Climb up using face holds and the corner with plenty of gear options. Continue until you reach a new two bolt anchor. Belay or rappel here or continue on.

Move straight up off the belay to get below a block. Get a good piece of gear here and sling it long. Step back down and make the tricky traverse left, do not continue straight up to the roof above. Continue traversing left to a piton at a stance. The pin can be backed up. Make a move up so that your below a small roof and your feet are at the piton. Clip the new single bolt that protects the crux. Get into the business by making the tough, balancy, and sustained moves up until you can step left onto the ledge. Continue moving across the big easy ledge until you reach some bolts at your feet. Continue straight up or rappel down. Rappelling here is recommended.

Continue straight up the corner feature until you top out in the bushes.

Location

Rappel with one 70m straight down to your pack if you stop at P2 or rappel with one 60m down and to the left or continue to the top and walk-off.

Protection

Single rack to #2 C4 with nuts and tri-cams. Bring plenty of shoulder length slings with maybe one 4' sling if you plan on linking P1 and P2. P2's anchor consists of 4 bolts linked together with some webbing and a piece of rope with rings. The rope was in good shape as of June 2012, but bring extra if concerned.
There are three more routes to the left of "Vaporizer". "S.O.S. by Jim Corbet and its second pitch, "Rain Drop Traverse" which joins up with "boulder Problem in the Sky". "Hanging Gardens" 5.10 is a one pitch route originally done in two. This starts off a large detatched block and is a much better climb done in one pitch, two ropes make it a better lead. Just left at the end of the wall is "Lopper Land" 5.9 a one pitch route up a dirty corner, better and harder than it looks! Short approach and spectacular views makes this place one of my favorite. If you end up at the Southwest end do not miss N.C. most exposed hike! This one way romp is not to be missed. It ends at the start of the headwall about 450 feet off the deck. It is refered to as the Indian Ledges. Mar 30, 2013
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
P2 now has an anchor of 1/2" SS with rings. They were placed on the ledge again, so pulling the rope is still difficult, but still better than the mank and tat. The ideal place would have been on the wall above. May 11, 2016
Re: pic of old fixed gear. I fell on that shit, circa '90 or so. It held. I did scream. Apr 26, 2016
Ben F
Benfield, Kolorado
Ben F   Benfield, Kolorado
Steggo,

Though Pappy Corbett first attempted SOS (not for "save our ship"), I got the FA on that. I have to spray about it so I can pick on Jim. He lowered-off, and I clipped his gear to his high point and finished at the first ledge. I returned the following weekend with Woody and did a proper lead on it (still so Pappy couldn't claim the FA). Woody and I believe it to be 5.9. I believe it was '98 when we did that. I chickened-out on your pitch. :)

I really don't climb as much anymore as I've become more of a misanthrope, but didn't get fat like Woody and Pappy. Ha. Hope you're doing well, man. Jun 18, 2014
I added some photos I recently uploaded of the first ascent of GBM with Bob Rotert on a rather cold winter day. Note I am in wool knickers and wool knee soxs and a wool sweater - and a new pair of EB's before they got all beat up. I believe Blair was taking the photos. I had gotten up to the roof with Peter Prandoni but rain and a very wet top turned up back earlier and Bob and I returned to complete the route. YOu can't see it but we were using millar mits the rock was so cold. May 30, 2014
Some aid and a sky hook were used on the first ascent to get to the second belay ledge. I returned a year or two later for the FFA/ first free Ascent with Bill St John. Those moves were also pretty commiting and are now the technical crux of the route.

One of my favorite routes in Cashiers. Rain was pouring down early in the day we did it. No bolts were placed at the first or second belay on the first ascent of this route. I remember being a bit terrified at this belay while Diff lead the moves off the ledge thinking if he fell we might both be going the distance. The commitment level was pretty high. Not uncommon for some routes back in those days. Fortunately he was calm and cool executing the moves without a hitch, elevating my already high respect for his climbing prowess. Those moves, off the ledge, are the "Boulder Problem in the Sky" and are what the route is named for. With the original no Bolts belay on the second pitch belay, doing them was high commitment. It doesn't surprise me bolts have sprouted since the original ascents.



Interesting to see pictures of some of the gear that has been in the rock for over 40 years. Jul 19, 2013
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
Thanks for this update and all the others sf. I always considered that crux a no-fall. Dec 18, 2012
Stephen Felker
Boulder, CO
Stephen Felker   Boulder, CO
Coincidence- the crux is now much safer and less cluttered. One stainless bolt effectively replaced all of this:



The 5/16 inch bolt appeared to just be a machine bolt, hammered in rivet style. It was rusted in-half inside the hole. The new replacement bolt is located as to keep the rope out from underfoot. For giggles I tested the fall on roped solo. It is now super clean and G rated instead of a roll of the dice. Oct 13, 2012
Nice description Tom! This route is a must do for sure. The natural pro is good and so is the rock quality. P1 is classic 5.8 in of its self. I will say that the fixed hardware is atrocious and is in desperate need of repair. The fact that it has not been replaced yet is an embarrassment. The crux bolt at the 5.11- crux is a time bomb. The belay at the top of P2 needs to be completely re-engineered. I understand that the bolts were placed on lead with a hand drill and hammering straight down onto the ledge is more efficient than hammering straight in the wall in front, but redesigning the belay with a power drill straight in the wall above and in front will provide a safer and better belay stance while eliminating the factor 2 possibility starting the third pitch as it is a "no fall" 5.9 move. Oct 13, 2012
Stephen Felker
Boulder, CO
Stephen Felker   Boulder, CO
Nice description Tom. I once got off route to the left, missed the crux, and pulled a moderate bulge directly below the P2 anchor. P3 is fun but its anchor is awkward and ratty. The top-out sucks, at least when wet. Aug 1, 2012