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Routes in Stairway to Heaven

Earwig S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Frog Kisser S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Good Ship Lollipop S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Heavenly Traverse (Bagels and Shmear) V2 5+
Knee Deep in Skin Flakes S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Someone's in the Kitchen with Dina T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stairway to Heaven T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,372 total · 18/month
Shared By: Brian Hestetune on Jul 30, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

The crux comes early with the overhanging hand crack. Once you get past this pull yourself into the batshit .8 or so squeeze chimney. There is an old bolt (no hanger) somewhere in there. It is a pretty cool position in this part as there is nothing beneath you. The 'stairway' part is fairly mellow at .8 or .9. Here we chose to keep traversing, but you should probably pull the roof. It looks much harder and more fun. Belay and walk off or down-climb to the chain anchors below.

Note: We might've done a variation to the tradition route by traversing under the final roof. It seemed like the natural line at the time.

Overall, it is a fun worthwhile climb. Be warned, this route will have more loose rock than its neighbors.

Location

Very obvious stairway crack.

Protection

There is a manky bolt (no hanger) in the chimney and bolt for an anchor at the belay on top. Bring doubles of your widest, although protection in the chimney is mostly psychological. You can get a great #2 at the top of the chimney.

Photos

matt evans
salt lake city, UT
matt evans   salt lake city, UT
There is now a shiny new bolted route that starts right and then joins the stairway crack. Anybody know its rating? Sep 2, 2013
Dylan Fadgen
Bend, OR
Dylan Fadgen   Bend, OR
/u/matt evans- My group's consensus is 5.9. Nov 9, 2014
goingUp
over here
 
goingUp   over here
 
Super unique climb. Limestone typically doesnt fracture this way. interesting jams, and face moves through the roof. Amazing exposure in the chimney and just an all around beautiful line. Jun 20, 2017
NRobl
Hyrum, UT
NRobl   Hyrum, UT
For the trad start, 1-2 #1s, 1 #3, 1 #4, 2 #5s and a #6 (C4s) or a big bro should get you through. You can get away without the big bro/#6 if you don't protect the upper chimney, which is pretty easy. Extend a lot.

The trad start goes at ~10+, the bolted line to the right goes at ~9 (due to the lower slab section). The actual stairway section feels about 5.7, but is super fun. May 14, 2018

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