Type: Trad, 110 ft (33 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,632 total · 23/month
Shared By: Brian Hestetune on Jul 30, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Description

The crux comes early with the overhanging hand crack. Once you get past this pull yourself into the batshit .8 or so squeeze chimney. There is an old bolt (no hanger) somewhere in there. It is a pretty cool position in this part as there is nothing beneath you. The 'stairway' part is fairly mellow at .8 or .9. Here we chose to keep traversing, but you should probably pull the roof. It looks much harder and more fun. Belay and walk off or down-climb to the chain anchors below.

Note: We might've done a variation to the tradition route by traversing under the final roof. It seemed like the natural line at the time.

Overall, it is a fun worthwhile climb. Be warned, this route will have more loose rock than its neighbors.

Protection

There is a manky bolt (no hanger) in the chimney and bolt for an anchor at the belay on top. Bring doubles of your widest, although protection in the chimney is mostly psychological. You can get a great #2 at the top of the chimney.

5/13/2020 - From the comments and rumors, there have been bolts added to the stairway.

Location

Very obvious stairway crack.

Photos