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Routes in Aguja El Marinero

El Regalo de Poseidon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Ryan Huetter & Wagner Machado, 2010
Page Views: 558 total · 8/month
Shared By: Ryan Huetter on Jul 30, 2012
Admins: Tony Yeary, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description

Clean varied crack climbing up the prow of Aguja El Marinero.

P1) Approach the route from the right side the big slab/butress at the base of the wall. Scramble diagonally left until you reach the base of a dihedral, belay from there (5.7, 70m).

P2) Climb up the dihedral, and follow cracks, passing a few small ledges along the way (5.10a).

P3) Continue straight up, surpassing a small roof by going around on its left side (5.11a).

P4) Go up along some big blocks till reaching a ledge at the base of a good hand crack in a dihedral (5.10c).

P5) Follow the perfect handcrack all the way till it splits and becomes a finger crack to the left. Reach a ledge (5.11a).

P6) Climb the Y shaped offwidth by its right (5.8-ish) until reaching a sloping ledge at the base of a double dihedral. Continue up, passing a roof at its end and reach a huge ledge (5.11b).

P7) Go up the OW crack at the very back of the ledge, reaching a small ledge and continuing up another short dihedral. Scramble to the top (5.10d).

DESCENT: Follow the rappel route to the left of the Como Todo Vicio route. 5 60-meter rappels will take you to the ground.

Location

Walk upstream from the Refugio about an hour to the Laguna. Aguja El Marinero looms above.

Protection

Double rack of Camalots from #.2 to #3, single #4, aliens, nuts and two 60-meter ropes. The crux is OW, but protects well with small cams in a thin crack inside.

Photos

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