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Don't Mess With Texas

5.13c, Sport,  Avg: 3 from 3 votes
FA: ???
Utah > Maple Canyon > Right Fork > Pipe Dream

Description

climb confianza to the big red cobble at the last bolt. clip the right draw and head right into a series of big holds and a couple knee bars (the first of which is difficult to use if you're 6'4"), rest up, then bust a v5/6 crux, skipping the clip to join 'great feast' at the big ledge. finish 'great feast'. be careful up there, holds are still breaking.

Location

start second route to the left from the middle. (same as diggler, confianza, rucksack, etc.)

Protection

fixed draws. 19 or so? much easier to skip some of the draws, leading to rather large, but safe, falls. bystanders may need warned about breaking holds.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Alex, on Don't mess w Texas
[Hide Photo] Alex, on Don't mess w Texas
clipping off the knee bar just before the crux.
[Hide Photo] clipping off the knee bar just before the crux.