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Routes in Serpent Wall

Antivenin S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blank Page S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
El Primero S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flakey Tigress S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
God Bless the IRS S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
KB5 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moraccan Snake Charmer (5.11b variation) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Moraccan Snake Charmer (TR variation) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moroccan Snake Charmer S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sidewinder S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slither S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: FA: Karl Vochatzer, Jan 21, 2012
Page Views: 542 total, 8/month
Shared By: JonnyGreenlee Greenlee on Jul 30, 2012 with updates
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Description

Right of Flakey Tigress, left of the two routes that go right and left around an obvious bulge at the top of the wall, heads to the anchors to the left of Moroccan Snake Charmer (left side of the bulge). Crux is getting off the ground through a low roof, then smooth sailing up to the top. There is some really poor quality rock to the left side- hang right for better rock even if it makes it a bit harder.

Protection

5 bolts to a sport anchor.

Photos

The start is definitely the crux, but take a little time and feel around and it isn't that bad. If you're thinking there's no way it's 5.8, you're either not a 5.8 climber or you haven't explored enough (or both). Oct 23, 2016
trevor becker
  5.8-
trevor becker  
  5.8-
GoPro HERO 2 footage of this climb:

youtube.com/watch?v=5aP0RCL… Feb 4, 2013