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Routes in The Bayou (aka The Graveyard)
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Bambi V10 7C+ |
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Bambi Arete V2+ 5+ PG13 |
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Bluebird V1 5 |
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California, The V4 6B PG13 |
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Chicken Little V2 5+ |
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Comfortably Numb V6 7A |
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Fledgling V0 4 |
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Frogman V4 6B |
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Graffiti Dihedral TR V0 4 X |
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Great Horn TR V2 5+ X |
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Hairy Crack V0 4 |
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Heels In Valhalla V0+ 4+ |
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Horsetails Fall V2 5+ R |
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Mantel V2-3 5+ X |
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Maroon V0-1 4+ |
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Mind Memo V6 7A X |
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PI Fight V4 6B X |
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Slab Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b V-easy 3 X |
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Smear it On TR V0- 4- PG13 |
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Smoke Rise Up V8 7B X |
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Spider Soul V3 6A X |
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Thin Traverse V4 6B |
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Undercling Crack V2 5+ |
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Waller's Walk V3-4 6A+ PG13 |
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Warm Up Crack V0 4 |
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Willow Crimps V2 5+ |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | TR, Boulder, 27 ft (8 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,432 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Clockwork Orange on Jul 29, 2012 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Access Notes
Details
CRAGS, the local Access Fund org, continues to work with the City of Rocklin, and its Parks and Recreation Department, to improve the conditions of this bouldering site. Because of the setting, litter is a problem in this area. Please do your part. With a number of clean-ups and a recent face lift to the park, it is one of the easiest bouldering locations to get to in the Sacramento valley. With a longer term goal of (literally!) draining the swamp, and holding many future local events, Rocklin Bouldering is one of first and longest ongoing projects. Note that the former quarries east of Pacific Street, and opposite Deer Creek Park, are closed to climbing. You can communicate access issues directly at CRAGS’ Deer Creek Park page norcalcrags.org/crags/rockl….
Description
AIRY HIGHBALL!!! I have determined this a V4 - but the book says V3 climb the large dihedral to incuts , then traverse left under the roof to a large pinch. Reach back and right to the horn/jug. Straight-arm and palm the horn to reach a SMALL! incut crimp in the small dihedral left of the hanging arete. Putting your feet up to the horn and stemming onto the slab, make a DELICATE move out to the hanging arete with plenty of air beneath you. Reach to positive lip.
Protection
I would advise a rope, this is extremely airy and after the first couple of moves there is nothing that a pad would protect.
I used a BD #4-5 to protect at the top. There is also this cool anchor at the top that I have used but bring a few runners to avoid rope drag, because the edge is SHARP!
I used a BD #4-5 to protect at the top. There is also this cool anchor at the top that I have used but bring a few runners to avoid rope drag, because the edge is SHARP!
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