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Routes in The Bayou (aka The Graveyard)

Bambi V10 7C+
Bambi Arete V2+ 5+ PG13
California, The V4 6B PG13
Comfortably Numb V7 7A+
Frogman V4 6B
Graffiti Dihedral TR V0 4 X
Great Horn TR V2 5+ X
Hairy Crack V0 4
Horsetails Fall V2 5+ R
Mantel V2-3 5+ X
Mind Memo V6 7A X
PI Fight V4 6B X
Slab Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b V-easy 3 X
Smear it On TR V0- 4- X
Smoke Rise Up V8 7B X
Spider Soul V3 6A X
Thin Traverse V4 6B
Undercling Crack V2 5+
Waller's Walk V3-4 6A+ PG13
Warm Up Crack V0 4
Willow Crimps V2 5+
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Type: TR, Boulder, 27 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 360 total · 5/month
Shared By: Nukem on Jul 29, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Access Notes Details

Description [Edit]

AIRY HIGHBALL!!! I have determined this a V4 - but the book says V3 climb the large dihedral to incuts , then traverse left under the roof to a large pinch. Reach back and right to the horn/jug. Straight-arm and palm the horn to reach a SMALL! incut crimp in the small dihedral left of the hanging arete. Putting your feet up to the horn and stemming onto the slab, make a DELICATE move out to the hanging arete with plenty of air beneath you. Reach to positive lip.

Location [Edit]

The obvious roof next to the splitter crack.

Protection [Edit]

I would advise a rope, this is extremely airy and after the first couple of moves there is nothing that a pad would protect.

I used a BD #4-5 to protect at the top. There is also this cool anchor at the top that I have used but bring a few runners to avoid rope drag, because the edge is SHARP!

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Kelley Gilleran
Sacramento, Ca
Kelley Gilleran   Sacramento, Ca
In the norcal bouldering guide this problem is graded V2X May 12, 2014

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