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Basted Pikas

5.12c, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 4 from 24 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Wasatch Range > Northern Wasatch > Cache Valley > Logan Canyon > Rodent Ranch

Description

This is a really fun route. There seems to be three distinct crux-ish parts to this route. In order of difficulty the crux moves are: after the fifth bolt, the roof, and pulling above the third bolt. I found those to be the trickiest. Shorter people may find getting to the third bolt to be fairly hard.

This route features mostly pockets/crimps, sidepulls, and periodic jugs. Outside of the cruxes, the climbing felt like 11/12- climbing, with occasional easier moves. Get on it. A good way to get used to the climbing on the wall is to do AG Tummus (11d) -> Girls do Pinchlingue (12b) -> Basted Pikas (12c)

Location

This route is to the right of black elk speaks. Start in the crack and slowly move to the right, away from the crack. The route will lower about 15 feet over and 6 feet out from the wall.

Protection

11 bolts and chains

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Simon Fitting
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] Cool route but it’s 13 bolts to chains not 11. Looks like it was 11 to the old, lower anchor. New anchor is equipped with beaners. Oct 8, 2022