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Routes in Rodent Ranch

A.G Tumnus S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Basted Pikas S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bitty Bee S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Black Elk Speaks S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Mouse Speaks S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blinded by the Light S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Callalo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fuzzy Navel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Girls do Pinchlingue S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Happy Ending S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hummer S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Jingles S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pika Angst S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
To Stand On S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 420 total · 6/month
Shared By: Brian Hestetune on Jul 28, 2012
Admins: Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Andrew Gram

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Description [Edit]

This is a really fun route. There seems to be three distinct crux-ish parts to this route. In order of difficulty the crux moves are: after the fifth bolt, the roof, and pulling above the third bolt. I found those to be the trickiest. Shorter people may find getting to the third bolt to be fairly hard.

This route features mostly pockets/crimps, sidepulls, and periodic jugs. Outside of the cruxes, the climbing felt like 11/12- climbing, with occasional easier moves. Get on it. A good way to get used to the climbing on the wall is to do AG Tummus (11d) -> Girls do Pinchlingue (12b) -> Basted Pikas (12c)

Location [Edit]

This route is to the right of black elk speaks. Start in the crack and slowly move to the right, away from the crack. The route will lower about 15 feet over and 6 feet out from the wall.

Protection [Edit]

11 bolts and chains

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