PRINT: Rock Climb North by Northwest variation, 1. Southern Mountains Region

North by Northwest variation

5.7, Trad, Sport, 380 ft (115 m), 3 pitches,

Avg: 2.6 from 5 votes
FA: unknown
N Carolina > 1. Southern Mou… > Stone Depot

Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags Details

The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!

carolinaclimbers.org/conten…

Description

I am posting this to see if anyone has done it or knows more info on the route. I have not climbed it, only viewed it while putting up 'Groove Connection' so take the following with a grain of salt
P1,2:Take NBNW. 5.5
P3: trend 15' left of NBNW, Follows 3-4 bolts on a face to NBNW anchors, estimated 5.7

Location

Rap NBNW

Protection

bolts and gear

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jon Powell
LAWRENCEVILLE GEORGIA

I have climbed this route twice. First 2 pitches can be combined with a 70 but be ready for some drag. Third pitch is the crux but it is well bolted. There is actually 5 pitches not 3 but you can also combine the last 2. 5th pitch is super easy. Did it in the pouring rain with no problems. No fixed anchors on the last pitch so use the tree. Hardest part is the approach down to the base of the route. Be ready for some bush wacking. Mar 9, 2015

Ti ck

I believe we did this variation on the 3rd pitch. Feet turned into marbles very quickly making climbing very difficult, I believe all three in our party fell and none were inexperienced climbers. Kinda a terrifying lead the first bolt is ~25ft from anchors with a slabby smear fall potential. I got suckered right next to an old chopped bolt and needed to down climb resulting in a 4ft slide on my feet, would be better if more people climbed it and the top layer of crap rock an lichen were removed. Nov 23, 2015

Jon Powell
LAWRENCEVILLE GEORGIA

Was back on North by Northwest in November. Be careful not to get sucked into the water grooves on the left of the second pitch. Looks like it is easirt terrain but you will end up about 15ft above the last bolt and about 15 ft to the right of it before you realize it. A fall here will suck. Stay under the bolts and you will be fine Dec 15, 2015

Mark O'Neal
Nicholson, GA

We looked at this today. Didn't see much potential for pro and frankly it didn't look any more fun than the regular line. If you go way left its pretty crunchy. Doesn't seem worth it Aug 27, 2016

Chuck Parks
Atlanta, GA

5.8

Climbed this one yesterday after getting to the top of P1 of Groove Connection and finding that the water grooves above were running with water. This pitch makes more sense when approached from Groove Connection, and works well as a consolation prize if those upper pitches are wet.

Do the 180 foot gear pitch one of Groove Connection. Out right of the gear belay above the tree you'll find bolted belay anchors specifically for this climb. From that belay you can follow the bolts more or less straight up until the line merges with North By Northwest at the top of its 3rd pitch.

I found a couple of gear placements along the way. A single rack up to a #2 Camalot might not go unused. Nonetheless, even with gear you're going to be facing crux friction moves on exfoliating slab well above protection. It's kind of like playing Russian roulette with your feet! If this route sees more traffic and cleans up a bit, it'll feel tamer. But for now I'd recommend you be solid on 5.9 friction before leading it. May 28, 2017

Mike R

5.7

Thanks Chuck! May 29, 2017