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Routes in Belleview Slab

Also Ran T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Belle Bottom Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Belleview T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Chess Club Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Discovered Check T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Giucco Piano T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Glee Club Crack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Lawyers, Guns, and Money S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
O'Tom's Tick Twister T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: July 2012
Page Views: 366 total, 6/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Jul 27, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

Unexpectedly, here is a decent route between 2 other lines already done. With 3 different cruxes, this was a nice find.
Climb into left-facing corner (crux #1) and make a delicate move out and over it, passing a bolt as you do. Climb trivial slab to an overhang, climbing through it easily at a point below a right-facing flake/corner. Climb the corner a couple feet, then move out left onto the slab. Crux #2 is friction, happily bolt-protected. After one dicey move, the going is once again casual (tho unprotected) up to a final headwall, where one more bolt protects the final crux move. A bit more dicey friction leads to the white pine; a small oak tree lies invitingly to the right for those who want off a bit earlier.

Location

Start just below a crescent-shaped, left-facing corner, just left of a mossy streak in the slab.

Protection

3 QDs and a couple smallish cams.

Photos

Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.8-
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.8-
This route has excellent moves in a couple different places. Wouldn't want to lead it though! :p Jun 9, 2013