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Routes in Monte Garzo

Alhambra 6b+ S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lucertola 6c S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Maggialore 6b+ S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 1800 ft, 18 pitches, Grade IV
FA: H Müller
Page Views: 717 total, 11/month
Shared By: Colin Winter on Jul 24, 2012
Admins: Dan Flynn

You & This Route


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Description

Probably the most well-known route in the area, if not the entire region. It has a few tricky sequences, but for the most part it is the sheer length of the route that is taxing: 18 pitches, almost entirely at grades between 5c and 6b+.

The lower section is comprised of moderate slab climbing, and barring any particular impediments can be climbed fairly quickly. The middle, transitioning section has the most difficult pitches (2x 6b+) with technical sequences, and the upper headwall demands some endurance with fairly continuous, steeper terrain... the promise of pizza, beer and gelati helps tap those last reserves.

Probably goes without saying, but you will suffer immensely if you climb this route in typical Ticino summer conditions. Also beware of the potential for traffic jams in the route, and use some combination of early/late starts, avoiding weekends, and avoiding peak climbing season.

Location

Facing the wall, the route is towards the far right and begins somewhat lower that the other routes to the left.

Descent is at first by foot - on a well traveled path to the north, roughly following a line of towers with overhead cables - and then with a series of abseils back down to the base area.

Protection

Bolted (impeccably).

Photos

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