Direct south ridge
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
Routes in Gross Schijen
|Direct south ridge T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 1100 ft, 8 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||B Honegger, A Müller|
|Page Views:||25 total, 0/month|
|Shared By:||Colin Winter on Jul 24, 2012|
DescriptionA great route up the prominent south pillar.
A good topo can be found in the plaisir ost guidebook.
P1: 5c+, perhaps the very best pitch of the route, with a brilliant 30 meter flake from the ground to the anchor (also makes finding the base of the climb very straightforward)
P2 6b+, one short, strenuous layback sequence gives the grade, can easily be aided
P3: 6a, up left into a gully, then out on and up a slab with micro crimpers
P4: 5b, nice, steep terrain on good holds to anchor underneath a roof
P5: 5c, left out and around the roof, then straightforward and enjoyable climbing on generous flakes
P6: 6a, more of the same
P7: eases off into scrambling terrain, with final anchor to end the technical climbing (can abseil back down the route from this point).
Continue up to peak, or traverse east towards grassy patches to gain the descent gully (may want to stay roped up in early part of traverse).
Route is bolted, but a small assortment of cams / nuts can supplement what's there. A single 50m rope does the trick, unless you plan to descend by abseil.