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The Maine Line

5.11a, Sport, 170 ft (52 m),  Avg: 3.8 from 6 votes
FA: WS/JB
Maine > -Clifton Crags > Big Chick Hill > Main Face

Description

A clean white slab leads to an obvious bulge where technical crimping gets you thru the crux.

Location

Walk past My Time about 100 ft and slightly up the ramp and locate a medium pine about 5 feet up the rock face. The route starts covered in lichen up to oak branches touching the cliff, but you'll be able to spot the clean white streak and line of bolts going up to a vertical bulge. The route goes out of site as it passes the crux bulge.

Protection

11 Quick Draws. Rap into the gully. The gully slopes up enough that you'll make it comfortably with 70m, and probably with 60m as well, although there is a rusty belay station out right that you can use as an intermediate.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Start of route with John Tierney's "little pine" from 1999
[Hide Photo] Start of route with John Tierney's "little pine" from 1999
chilling at belay
[Hide Photo] chilling at belay

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
[Hide Comment] Killer route! You can rappel this route into a good safe position in the gully with a 60m rope. I highly doubt you'd make it if you tried to lower though. May 29, 2017
Alex Leger
Bangor, ME
 
[Hide Comment] Mega fun and the crux is super safe to fall on! The climbing below the crux is slightly runout but much easier. I was happy to have a stick clip for the first bolt because the start of the route is entirely covered by lichen right now.
Shares My Time's P2 anchor. Aug 12, 2024
Nhan Ngo
Bangor, ME
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] The crux of this route is a nice stout vert wall, with a good hold in the middle which breaks it into two sections with decent clipping positions. Actually pretty fun techy crystals with decent feet as opposed to some of the other options in the area. The lichen part at the beginning is in need of a severe clean and is honestly the scariest part of the route. 4 stars as far as Clifton goes. Oct 1, 2024