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Routes in Rundlehorn Area

Rundlehorn S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Sport, 1000 ft, 11 pitches
FA: FA: unknown, re-­equipped November 2011
Page Views: 8,542 total, 130/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Jul 23, 2012
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

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Description

A long slightly runout sport climb that was re-equipped in 2011 by some local guides. Generally good rock with great position high up above the Banff golf course and Bow River. The 5 minute approach makes this a popular route. Be wary of rockfall if another party is above as there are lots of loose scree ledges up high

Location

Park at the climbers pullout lot along the Banff Golf Course road near the clubhouse. It's just at the base of the Mt. Rundle ridgeline. Walk uphill for 5 minutes to find the bolts on the big slab next to a large left-facing dihedral.

Protection

draws, all pitches are link-able.

Photos

Mike Reardon  
 
Climbs a cool but choss filled feature that you can see from downtown Banff. Recommend starting on the right hand start, which is the rap line. Overall, the route leaves a lot to be desired in terms of interesting climbing or quality rock. There were some nice patina edges up high at least. Also, the rap stations were placed in thoughtful areas to minimize rock fall hazard. That said, it felt safer to down climb the whole thing then it did to pull ropes due to loose rock above.

Also, just curious if anyone has continued up through the forest, then Up the upper head wall to the summit of Rundle? That looks worthwhile. Jun 25, 2017
Tom Gnyra    
 
Was on it today. Great fun and enjoyable. The first half, however, is marred by occasional choss and 3rd/4th class moves.

HOWEVER, for the grade, the second half is worth doing. Sep 12, 2015
Great first multi-pitch climb for my 12-year old. There is a lot of 4th class, so approach shoes are adequate for the entire climb. The pitches are very short and we skipped quite a few anchors to make it five or six pitches instead of 11. BE WARY OF LOOSE ROCKS! Aug 6, 2013