PRINT: Rock Climb Lick It Up, Adirondacks

Lick It Up

5.10b, Trad, 65 ft (20 m),

Avg: 2.9 from 22 votes
FA: July 24th, 1985 by Adam Clayman and Jeff Edwards
New York > Adirondacks > C: Keene Region > Barkeater Cliff

Description

Squirm up through the widening crack to the widest pod below the finger crack. Pull out of the pod and climb the crack until it tapers off. At this point, you'll have a good right hand and a dish big enough to stick both your feet in. Enter the crux sequence by moving left into thin face climbing to eventually reach a great jug. Step left onto the cantilevered block and the fixed anchor.

Location

Maybe 20 feet right uphill of Finger It Out. The wide pod around 10 feet high is pretty distinct.

Protection

Basically a standard rack of nuts and cams with a selection of some smaller gear. An upside down #3 blue BD cam protects the last bit of traverse off left to the trees pretty well (also protects the second if you don't immediately place gear after pulling through the crux). You may want to place one on the earlier part of the climb, so take an extra one if you do. You may find room for doubles of some finger sized stuff as well. There is a tree with a fixed anchor off to the left when you get up there that you can belay a second from and rappel from. This route is not super easily toproped, but if you leave the last #3 upside down cam in, it can be a decent enough directional for someone to toprope it on.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

It's Magically Delicious

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nick W
Orford, NH

Great well-protected little pitch! Jun 12, 2015

Ross Manny
Saranac Lake, NY

5.10b

There is now a shared anchor with Finger It Out. You can't miss it. Aug 1, 2020

Nicholas Orton
Saranac lake

With the new anchor being to the left of the huge block, be sure to place a directional out right for this one (almost eye level with the anchor) to avoid unwanted pressure on this precarious block. Huge thanks to whom ever added this anchor, much nicer than belaying from the trees. Apr 13, 2021

Owen Wilkins
Lebanon, NH

5.11-

perhaps I was trying it completely wrong, but did this 08/07/21 and the crux felt at least 11-. did a hold on the face possibly break recently..? Aug 8, 2021

Geanette Manny
Vermontville, NY

5.10b

Owen Wilkins - As far as I know, no hold has broken. It's a beastly little crux. I've seen taller people lunge past those thin features, whereas I manage to match on a credit card crimp with tricky footwork. This one may surpass the usual level of sandbaggery in the Adirondacks. Maybe the feet were better back in the day? Jun 1, 2022

jed wards
vt

5.10b

I used the credit card match too, wicked cool! Nest some small gear and punch it. It felt on par with adk 10b to me since it’s not very sustained. I could see how it feels a little sandy if you’re used to those NH grades tho ;) Jun 1, 2022