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Routes in Concord Tower

Cave Route, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
North Face Var. Right (Directisimo) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South Face Center T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 484 total, 7/month
Shared By: Chris Keefe on Jul 22, 2012
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Begin at the notch between concord tower and liberty bell. Follow a crack system to a large ledge with some small trees (5.6), P1 of the standard N. Face rte. From here, pitch two continues up right to a striking vertical crack. Follow the crack up until the climbing grows strenuous. Traverse up and left across a face, aiming for the huge boulder/chockstone slung with tat. (5.8) Expect rope drag on this long and wandering pitch. The ledge behind the boulder provides an adequate belay station. Climb up and left, following the bolted ramp to the summit (5.easy)

Location

Begins as for the standard north face route. Rappel is possible down either the north or south faces of concord tower. Single-rope rappels are possible on the north face, but may be uncomfortable. Single rope rappels are strongly recommended on the south face, as ropes tend to stick on the edge.

Protection

Gear to 3". Many bring a 4" cam. Bolts on P3. Rap chains on summit.
60-70m rope

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.8
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.8
Yes to the #4! When I did it, I bumped a tipped-out #3 for the last 20'... less than ideal.

A single 60m rope works if you rap from the summit to the east, then from a tree at the notch down to an uncomfortable spot with a slung constriction, then to the 1st pitch ledge, then to the ground. Ugh. Aug 15, 2015
Jean Spencer
Squamish, CA
Jean Spencer   Squamish, CA
I'd bring a #4 or two. Jul 26, 2015
Zachary Winters
Mazama, Washington
 
Zachary Winters   Mazama, Washington
 
The crux is a small wide bulge at the start of the "real climbing" just above some fixed tat. Rock quality here is poorer than the rest, but after a freaky move or two the rest is great quality fist cracks, easy OW with face holds, and hand cracks to the top. The top of this pitch to the summit is 5.0, not 5.7. Aug 16, 2014
Eliza Penick
Seattle, WA
 
Eliza Penick   Seattle, WA
 
Also named Directismo. Jul 16, 2014