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Routes in Bartizan Wall

Crack of Earthly Delights T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elrod's Epic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kevizan T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lion's Share T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Naked Rib, The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Storming the Castle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Window on the West T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Steve Wunsch & John Bragg, Summer 1977
Page Views: 712 total, 11/month
Shared By: Chris Hirsch on Jul 19, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

This one is much better than anticipated. What looks like a wide nightmare on poor rock turned out to be very enjoyable. Face climbing around most wide sections (my favorite), perfect natural belays, amazing last pitch, and a sweet walk-off.
P1: 5.10, 150' Cruise up to the small right facing chimney. Pull bulge and continue 'til you reach a nice ledge with a pin. Small gear for anchor.
P2: 5.10-, 65' Go for the large crack off the climber's left side of the belay ledge. Bust left onto face before horizontal. Stop at an even bigger belay ledge down and left of the large overhang. Medium gear for anchor.
P3: 5.10, 70' Pull final overhang and enjoy an atypical needles finger/hand crack to the top.

Location

Start between prominent buttress (on left) and very large boulder. Finish on obvious high point on E face. Navigate your way back towards visible hiker's trail to the W.

Protection

Doubles to #3, single #4, nuts

Photos

Austin Fisher
  5.10+
Austin Fisher  
  5.10+
Yer gonna want a #4 or two for sure Apr 18, 2016
CraigKnyn
Custer, SD
CraigKnyn   Custer, SD
Did the route w Austin F. yesterday and ... it is one burly, slightly overhung, sustained crack climb. Be ready for 5.11 style climbing at the two cruxes. Used a #4 Camalot and a #5 Friend. Our small haul bag barely touched the wall on all 3 pitches. Apr 10, 2016
Robbie Freidel
The Needles of South Dakota
  5.10
Robbie Freidel   The Needles of South Dakota
  5.10
would definitely recommend a number 4. a number 5 could be useful though unnecessary. crazy exposure. try looking down when pulling that roof. Aug 28, 2013
Cheyenne Chaffee
North Conway, NH
Cheyenne Chaffee   North Conway, NH
Climbed this today. Great route with good gear, mostly good rock quality and good exposure. Quite easy to combine the second and third pitch with judicious use of long runners. #4 was nice to have. Would fit perfect to protect the pull over the roof near the top. Jul 21, 2012