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The Wasp

5.11b, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.8 from 13 votes
FA: FA: John Hooper 5/1964 FFA: Frank Noble 1976
California > San Diego County > S San Diego County > Mission Gorge > Main Wall

Description

Powerful moves low down make up the crux of this route. The Wasp has a lot of variety from slick slab to layback to finger crack to roof crack. A lot of stances break up the hard moves making it not too pumpy but the crux moves require power and good technique. It's also good clean aid practice.

Location

Just at the top of the left approach trail, between Escapade and Master of Defeet.

Protection

2 bolts and gear 0.3" to 2". The route is difficult and good protection is spaced out 5-10 feet so be up for the challenge if you want to lead this. Can be toproped, a longish anchor is advised. One (or both?) bolt has been added to the start since back in the day. I think that one was well deserved.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

I totally stole this photo from the main Mission Gorge page. The "Wasp". Epperson shooting Allenby 1986 photo Ron Amick.
[Hide Photo] I totally stole this photo from the main Mission Gorge page. The "Wasp". Epperson shooting Allenby 1986 photo Ron Amick.
The Wasp (5.11b) 5/2014
[Hide Photo] The Wasp (5.11b) 5/2014
Jake R. leading the Wasp Oct 2019
[Hide Photo] Jake R. leading the Wasp Oct 2019

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

mschlocker
San Diego, CA
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] In the 1980 guide I have this is rated 10+/11 Jul 18, 2012
tom donnelly
san diego
[Hide Comment] this route is over 100 feet long, (even with a long anchor sling). Nov 27, 2018
Robert M
 
[Hide Comment] It is possible to rap down and swing a little to the right to get to the anchors and set up a TR. If you're TR soloing on this I strongly recommend wrapping a loop around a quickdraw off the second bolt while you work out the crux; the rope stretch is outrageous and you'll end up on the base of the route every time otherwise. Jun 15, 2022
Matt Beebe
 
[Hide Comment] A must do route. Probably the quintessential Mission Gorge classic. Feels like 11+ to a good rest, to an 11a section, then another good rest, then 5.9. Can be top roped with a 50 meter rope if you extend the anchor slightly w a cordelette. Sep 18, 2022
Alex Johnson
Chula Vista
 
[Hide Comment] Such an amazing route! The boulder problem in the beginning is hard too commit to but feels heroic when you pull through. Having a heads up belayer for the first two bolts in case of an unexpected fall is a must. Solid 11b for Mission Gorge. Apr 23, 2023