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Zombie Leprachauns

5.11d, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 166 votes
FA: Equipped by Charlie Kardalef, FA: Mike Snyder, 2011
Wyoming > Ten Sleep Canyon > Wall of Denial
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Description

This climb is fairly sustained, without ever really having a 5.12- move. There are a few good rests and mini cruxes the whole way. A very good CK route.

Location

Left of Insane Hound Posse, right of Wall of Denial.

Protection

bolts and chain anchors

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tyler Wellman
Cambridge
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Very fun route, will get better with more traffic. Though probably not 5.12 overall, there is a whole lot of 5.11 climbing on this one! Aug 13, 2013
Ian Stewart
5.11c
[Hide Comment] Really fun route, but you might want a helmet on your belayer. There are a few thin dinner plate flakes that are going to give one of these days. Though I would have loved to add a 12a onsight to my list, it felt much easier than that to me...probably closer to 11c, really. Sep 3, 2013
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] Awesome climbing, lots of sidepulls & oppositional feet, styles not overly common in Tensleep. Almost felt more like granite face climbing except for the smattering of typically great pockets everywhere. 11d/12a? Doesn't matter! Fantastic addition Charlie & Mike. Sep 8, 2013
ktmt
Missoula, MT
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] Really enjoyed this route! Feel the 11d/12- is appropriate: couple notches harder than Save the Best for Last, comparable to Dope and Wu-Tang on the Shinto (both 12a), in the ballpark with Mike's Got a Dirty Diaper (11d), albeit shorter.

Easy to set up (hang draws, t.r., etc) from Insane Hound Posse anchors. Jul 3, 2015