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Have You Heard About the Sellout
5.11a,
Sport, 55 ft (17 m),
Avg: 2.3 from 52
votes
FA: JB Haab, 2011
Wyoming
> Ten Sleep Canyon
> Downtown
> Cigar
Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
Rambly start up a slabby beginning with jugs. Mount the pillar and pull interesting holds to reach the big light-colored scar. A slopey and devious crux leads to a reasonable finish. Nice one JB! Maybe the best of the four on the front of the pillar.
Location
On the front of the Cigar Pillar on the left side. Of the two 5.11's this is the right line and easier of the two.
Protection
10 clips, chains
[Hide Photo] Red rope on the 11a. Tricky in the upper part.
[Hide Photo] Climber starting 'Have you heard about the sellout'
[Hide Photo] The 5.11- is the route left of the climber's line.
Ten Sleep WY
Your membership & donations to both associations go directly toward keeping routes safe #loweroffinitiative Apr 26, 2023