Avg: 3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft, 7 pitches|
|Page Views:||5,362 total · 64/month|
|Shared By:||Ray Hellinger on Jul 16, 2012|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
This is one of the best routes in the San Juans (that I've done at least). The first pitch is the cruz and is an amazing 5.8 dihedral for 200+ft. Second pitch is runout on easy climbing and then works through some overhangs. The rest of the climb kicks back and is 5.6 at the hardest. Working around the towers before the summit of the spire is fun and exposed. We rapped into the notch and got socked in by a nasty thunderstorm. It didn't relent so we had to bail down the horrendously loose gully below. We were able to downclimb all but the final 150ft, which we rapped (anchors should still be there). The climbing out of the notch seemed around 5.5/6. I attempted one pitch and had to bail due to lightning. Anchor is still up there, haha.
This is the obvious west buttress that you see from the beaver ponds with the spire on top. Walk around to the west side of the peak (approaching the Arrow/Electric saddle) and you will see a ramp running up to the south. Start up the ramp and go up the obvious dihedral. If you walk to the end of the ramp there is some very steep terrain that may add a couple more hard pitches.