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Routes in DeMoisy Peak

Lone Tree T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
On The Fly T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 230 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Peter Vintoniv and James Garrett, June 2012
Page Views: 109 total, 2/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Jul 15, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

This route ascends the longest stretch of face/slab on the quartzite North East Face of DeMoisy Peak.

Pitch #1: The good quality quartzite is oddly bleached a whitish gray hue. Start up an arĂȘte past a few faint overlaps to a hand crack trending left and away from the edge. On very nice edges continue left and up to a belay on a ledge. 5.8, 30m.

Pitch #2: Move the belay to the far left side of the ledge. Start up to the right of a massive right facing dihedral which veers left and follow the line straight up the slab passing some welcome fixed protection to a belay station. 5.10a/b, 40m

3rd class a short stretch of broken up rock to the summit ridge.

Walk off to the West. Rappelling the route is also possible.

Location

A wonderful and consistent slab route up solid quartzite stone to the summit of an alpine peak.

Protection

12 QDs and set of Camalots (C3s and Aliens very helpful!) to #3 and Nuts

Photos

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