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Routes in Gemstone West

Broken Ladders T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Christian Rock T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fin Left, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flail Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gemstone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pair of 4s T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Seamingly Hard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shoots & Ladders T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sinsemilla Shake - P3 (a.k.a. Green Snake - P2) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 150 ft
FA: ?? (Alam and Roumpf - 1989)
Page Views: 105 total, 2/month
Shared By: Alam on Jul 15, 2012
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This route follows a large flake on a gentle angle slab. The initial 40 feet are unprotected slab, but is low fifth class. Your target is a large left facing flake. Climb this flake using stemming and lay back (crux - some lettuce, should clean up with use) for about 40 feet (Two #4 Camelots come in handy here, but not critical), until a hand crack is reached. Climb the final 60 feet hand crack to a sling belay at a large pine (fir) tree.

Location

This route is located above P2 of shoots and ladders, and about 100 yards WEST of the Gemstone area. You will traverse through the rockfall zone from a decade ago, and then around the nose of a short headwall. The large leaning flake is obvious.

As a historical note the OW route "Back against the Wall" was located between P2 of Shoots and Ladders and Pair of 4s. That route totally vanished during the major rock fall in the late 90's.

Protection

All natural gear - standard rack - extra #4 (or larger Camelot if available).

Rappel of sling at tree.

Note: This tree has succumb to the drought is now dead. Consider how solid this belay is before use.

Photos

Howard Snell
Belen, New Mexico
 
Howard Snell   Belen, New Mexico
 
Bill & I also moved the rappel anchor to a live tree about 20' climber's left of the dead tree at the top of the route. We were able to rappel down with a double-strand single 60m rope by working climber's left about 30' down and then along the top of a large ledge. I don't recommend that rappel route as the rope makes several turns, goes through several bushes, and passes within several large cracks. The chances of sticking your rope as you pull it seem really high. Better to use two ropes, a tag line, or sling a horn near the end of the large crack midway up the route as a 2nd rappel anchor. Aug 27, 2012
Bill Lawry
New Mexico
  5.9
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
  5.9
Howard Snell and I climbed this today. The initial easy forty feet may continue becoming more protectable as the small cracks are cleaned out.

Some updates as of Aug 2016 ...

The flake protects very well with cams of the following sizes: BD C4s #5 (1 ea), #4 (2 ea), and #3 (1 ea; or was it a #3.5?). A solid 5.9 leader isn't going to need so much.

Added a 9/16" red sling to the existing 1" green webbing which has been up there for ~4 years. Aug 26, 2012