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Routes in Gemstone West

Broken Ladders T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Christian Rock T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fin Left, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flail Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gemstone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pair of 4s T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Seamingly Hard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shoots & Ladders T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sinsemilla Shake - P3 (a.k.a. Green Snake - P2) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 100 ft
FA: ?? (Alam and Roump 1990)
Page Views: 744 total, 11/month
Shared By: Alam on Jul 15, 2012
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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This is a single pitch (100') on very nice solid rock with great gear. This could be considered a P3 extension to shoots and ladders, as it starts 25 feet from the top of P2 of shoots and ladders.

Belay in a notch between the wall and large block. Climb double crack for 10-15', then hand traverse on thin crack (crux?) for 15 ' to gain left facing dihedral. Climb this dihedral until it become a crack, flake system on face which finally disappears. Finish by climbing up into large blocks to a sling belay.


Located above shoots and Ladders - Gemstone West.

Rappel - we have always used 2 ropes, but it should be doable with a 65 m rope.


All natural gear - thin to 3.5 inches.


The direct line (noted by Bill as the rap) has also been toproped. Start the same crack as broken ladders and climb straight up past a ultrathin crack and then onto a face to finally end at the rap station (5.6-5.7). I have not lead it yet as there is a section (40+) of no gear which would end in ground fall if a mistake was made. Jan 7, 2014
Bill Lawry
New Mexico
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
One can rap with a single 60 meter rope. But don't rap by following the route. Instead, follow something closer to a plumb line which eventually drops into a huge right-facing dihedral (climber's view).

Rap Sling Update, Aug 2016: added a tied 9/16" black sling to existing 1" blue which has been up there ~4 years. Oct 28, 2013
Howard Snell
Belen, New Mexico
Howard Snell   Belen, New Mexico
This is a really enjoyable climb. If you like Flake n Bake but wish it was a bit more challenging then Broken Ladders could be for you. The finger traverse looks thin from below, but it's a great finger crack and takes 0.3" to 0.5" pieces. Oct 28, 2012