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Routes in Gemstone West

Broken Ladders T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Christian Rock T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fin Left, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flail Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gemstone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pair of 4s T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Seamingly Hard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shoots & Ladders T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sinsemilla Shake - P3 (a.k.a. Green Snake - P2) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 100 ft
FA: ?? (Alam and Roump 1990)
Page Views: 750 total, 11/month
Shared By: Alam on Jul 15, 2012
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This is a single pitch (100') on very nice solid rock with great gear. This could be considered a P3 extension to shoots and ladders, as it starts 25 feet from the top of P2 of shoots and ladders.

Belay in a notch between the wall and large block. Climb double crack for 10-15', then hand traverse on thin crack (crux?) for 15 ' to gain left facing dihedral. Climb this dihedral until it become a crack, flake system on face which finally disappears. Finish by climbing up into large blocks to a sling belay.

Location

Located above shoots and Ladders - Gemstone West.

Rappel - we have always used 2 ropes, but it should be doable with a 65 m rope.

Protection

All natural gear - thin to 3.5 inches.

Photos

Alam
 
Alam  
 
The direct line (noted by Bill as the rap) has also been toproped. Start the same crack as broken ladders and climb straight up past a ultrathin crack and then onto a face to finally end at the rap station (5.6-5.7). I have not lead it yet as there is a section (40+) of no gear which would end in ground fall if a mistake was made. Jan 7, 2014
Bill Lawry
New Mexico
  5.7
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
  5.7
One can rap with a single 60 meter rope. But don't rap by following the route. Instead, follow something closer to a plumb line which eventually drops into a huge right-facing dihedral (climber's view).

Rap Sling Update, Aug 2016: added a tied 9/16" black sling to existing 1" blue which has been up there ~4 years. Oct 28, 2013
Howard Snell
Belen, New Mexico
 
Howard Snell   Belen, New Mexico
 
This is a really enjoyable climb. If you like Flake n Bake but wish it was a bit more challenging then Broken Ladders could be for you. The finger traverse looks thin from below, but it's a great finger crack and takes 0.3" to 0.5" pieces. Oct 28, 2012