Mountain Project Logo

Routes in East Face Slab

Hot Patootie Bless My Soul S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Los Pantalones De Alex S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Moss Lords of the Wasatch S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
SUPER 8 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Peter Stroker (roped solo)
Page Views: 401 total, 6/month
Shared By: Stevie Nacho on Jul 14, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


12 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A short climb that arches left up the slab. The start is marked by a fixed piton that shouldn't be trusted. The first bolt being about 20 feet up. It gets more difficult as the angle increases.

PITCH ONE: Follow the line of bolts arching left to a ledge with a chain anchor. There is some gear placements between bolts.

SECOND PITCH: Climb the easy and semi-loose arĂȘte/ridge above the chain belay. There are a few bolts and natural gear placements. To descend, locate two gold chains on the back side and slightly south of the top of the formation. Rap down the gulley to the south, back to the chain anchor of pitch one. From here, one rap there is one more single rope rap to the ground.

Location

The furthest left route on Alex Wall. This is the clean slab on the west side of the Back Of Beyond. Facing directly east, it gets sun till around 2:00. It is easily identified while climbing The Journey Home.

Protection

Quickdraws. A few small to medium pieces to suppliment the spaced bolts if runouts over easy ground scare you.

Photos

- No Photos -
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.8
The second pitch is great fun despite the choss - very cool position and exposure. Sep 7, 2016
J Shade
SLC, UT
 
J Shade   SLC, UT
 
Fun route. A pleasant compliment to Super 8 and Moss Lords.

If you lead Hot Patootie and want to set TR for others, best to belay from the top as the anchor (even extended some) yields some serious rubbing.

Another option rather than leading (and suffering to the first bolt if you don't have trad gear) is to rap to the Hot Patootie chains from P2 of Moss Lords and simply top belay from there. Jul 9, 2016
JimG  
I am glad to see Daniel's comment about the distance to the first bolt. I did this a couple of years ago and can remember thinking that it was a long "20 feet" to the first bolt. It's more like 30-40 feet, easy but some choss, and opportunities for good pro. Sep 11, 2015
First bolt is 30-40 feet off the ground. Definitely bring a finger size cam to protect the exposed move to get to it, unless you're not afraid of the possibility of cratering from way up. The crux is deciding which choss jug is least likely to blow off when it's weighted. Sep 11, 2015
Stevie Nacho
Utah
 
Stevie Nacho   Utah
 
A easy second pitch was added to the top of this route. Climb 5.5 up the arĂȘte past two bolts to the peak of the slab. Belay off natural gear on the top. There are a set of chains back and left (10-15 yards) from the summit. One rope (60m) will get you to the chains of the first pitch. This second pitch is choss but still fun for whomever likes to tip toe around on suspect rock. I had both feet cut loose but held it together because the terrain was easy and low angled. Of course the chossmaster Pete the Meat was on the first ascent team. He thought the rock was bomber! Sep 3, 2014