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Routes in Diagonal Ramp Wall

Fang Time T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Felonious Mopery T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Kielbasy Posse T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kill It Before It Spreads T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Leapin' Louie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Norman's Crack of Joy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tun Tavern T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: Tom Lane & Ben Brooke
Page Views: 334 total, 5/month
Shared By: Benjaminadk on Jul 13, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

Climb vertical crack using hand and fist jams (crux) to a ramp in a right facing corner. Continue up the crack pulling into and larger right facing corner with more fist jams. (V1) Continue up through three stacked teeth and make an akward move out of the huge corner and into a chimney. Hand jams to the top.

V1 - Move right at a crack below the stacked teeth. Follow to a horizontal and climb to a stance on top of a huge fang flake. Follow the handcrack moving up and right to the anchors of Felonious Mopery. 5.7 G

Location

Start at the base of vertical crack that runs directly to the top of the cliff. The crack climbs the huge right facing corner which pretty hard to miss. After topping out walk uphill 20 ft to find solid trees to anchor and belay from. It is now possible to use the gear in the crack at the top with a less than perfect tree to set up a top anchor.

Protection

Standard Rack plus big gear. An extra BD #3 and a BD #4 (or equivilant hex) are useful as the crack is very wide in spots.

Photos

Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.8
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.8
Both routes (the original up on left and V1 to 'fang' on the right) are quality climbs. Not sure about the plus + though. Dec 4, 2012
kenr
 
kenr  
 
Variety of interesting climbing moves, pretty fun. Could be much tougher for someone shorter that 5 ft 5 inch. Or much more tricky jamming in one section with non-large hands -- With my fairly large hands, I had nice fist jams in that middle section, but I guess someone with much smaller than that might need to do some sort of "stacking" jams (or some other trick) Aug 7, 2012