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Routes in Brighton's Frighton Wall

Fin Of Fear T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fret ArĂȘte S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Magic Flakes T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rusty Blade T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scream Seam T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Twinkie's Hatchet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Twinkies Hatchet West T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Wedge, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Worry Wart T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: James Garrett and Nate Bryan, July 2012
Page Views: 799 total, 12/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Jul 12, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

A massive sharp tipped "fin" with a very broad base sits on a solid perch about 3/4 of the way up the line.

Pitch #1: Really fun lay backing or hand jams up a wide crack (plenty of smaller protection options on both sides) leads to the scary looking fin. It would not even budge for me...I can't really envision it leaving its perch, but it is still quite daunting and exciting to climb past it. You can completely avoid it by climbing thin fun moves to the right. A few more face moves up lichen splattered rock leads to a two-bolt belay. 5.8, 20m.

Rappel the route. Consider rappelling to the left of the Fin if you get the same concerns as we did? I know I will do this route again and again.

Location

This is located about 2m to the right of the Fret ArĂȘte. A bolted belay allows descending the route.

Be careful in the boulder fields ascending or descending and keep your time passing through the girl scout camp to a minimum, please!

Protection

Set of Camalots and Nuts. Don't forget to bring maybe doubles on #4 Camalots? One is probably enough for most.

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Cool route, moves seemed pretty easy for 5.8 granite. Great protection abound, small or large. Aug 14, 2016
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8-
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8-
My rack for this route was an orange tcu, a #.5, a #3 and a #4. Felt like plenty but the #4 was nice to have. Jul 12, 2014
Jason Shumaker
Salt Lake City, Utah
Jason Shumaker   Salt Lake City, Utah
top anchors need some chains/quick links Jun 17, 2013