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One Drop of Water. V
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British A3
Avg: 4 from 1
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Routes in 3. Big Wall
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One Drop of Water. V T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A3 |
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Vital Phenomena T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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VMC Direct Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, Alpine, 1015 ft (308 m), 7 pitches, Grade V |
| FA: | Paul Ross Jeff Pheasent (alt leads).July 1976 |
| Page Views: | 3,651 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Paul Ross on Jul 12, 2012 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
A true directisima.We named this route prior to the first ascent after a saying by a famous Italian climbing Emilio Comici who said the perfect line is where one drop of water will fall... Start between the VMC and the Direct Direct. All pitches except perhaps one and two give superb climbing . No extra bolts please.P1) Start in the dike-type rock just right of the VMC. Free climb for about 90' than aid into a corner on the left. Swing right into another short corner and belay on the right. 160'P2) Continue up the dike both free and aid aiming for a short right leaning arch. Climb the arch and then after three bolts move left about 6' to a belay in the large crack on the VMC. 120'P3) Follow VMC which after 80' goes right. Continue up roof using nuts and pins via a crack which leads a few feet left. Continue over the roof to the large flake.160'P4)Just right of the belay mantle into a crack. Excellent climbing leads through a break in an awkward vertical wall and onto a slab with good horizontal crack right below the big upper overhangs.160'(Site of first ascent bivy).Massive thunder storms all night.. waterfall fell
directly onto the climbers,lots more than One Drop of Water!.P5)Escape by the slab on the left then aid back right for about 20' then straight up the overhangs to a belay above a short jam crack and below twin cracks.100'P6).One pin in the twin cracks brings one to a beautiful slab.Climb the cracks in the slab to ledges.165'P7)Up easy climbing to the summit. 150'
directly onto the climbers,lots more than One Drop of Water!.P5)Escape by the slab on the left then aid back right for about 20' then straight up the overhangs to a belay above a short jam crack and below twin cracks.100'P6).One pin in the twin cracks brings one to a beautiful slab.Climb the cracks in the slab to ledges.165'P7)Up easy climbing to the summit. 150'
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