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Routes in Mary Ellen's Gulch

Aspen Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Aspen Undercling T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Bent Tree Camo T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Black and Tan T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bonsai Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonsai Wall Project 1 S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Boo Boo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coal Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Decision time T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Diving Board Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Double Pane S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Pane Direct S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Down Spout T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Extra Large Pine Nuts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Gun Dog S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hard Rock Minor T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hunter Orange T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jelly Stone S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Left Y T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Lichen Sorbet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mr Ranger Sir S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pincone Top Rope Lines TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pine Cone Cafe T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Putty Knife T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Q.F. (quartzite fun) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rain Delay T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Right Y T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Satori T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sharpie S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Solid Eight S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sport Mining S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Squaty Body T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sweet and Sour S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tailings T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tempered Glass S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 1 S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wing Shot S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yogi Bear Flake S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
project 2 Bonzai wall S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Trad, Sport, 60 ft
FA: Sean and John Hansen and others (unknown)
Page Views: 824 total, 12/month
Shared By: SMH Climber on Jul 11, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

There are 2 cruxes the first is the start climb the roof and flake when you can stand on the top of the flake climb left past a bolt then strait up through horazontals finshing with a bolt (second crux) up a trough to the anchors. Amazing! We did a first pitch to this climb starting from the gound. Its 5.9 and uses all gear I do not recomend climbing this. Instead approach left of the Jelly Stone wall then continue up another short gully to the top of the Satori Wall. turn south (right) and walk 100 yards. on your right you will see some bolt anchors and chain that can hang down in the upper trough on Satori. Either rap to the starting ledge or continue walking south to the end of the Satori wall then decend to the the starting ledge and travers over to the big ledge, roof and flake. Enjoy!

Location

As you are driving north into Maryellens pass the boulder on the right look up and see the slab then continue up the road about 50 yards. on the right will be a boulder scree and no trees blocking the view look up and locate the roof and flake about 20 ft up from the ground and 50ft left of the south end of the wall. Continue up 50 more yards and park in the Right or left Pull outs.

Protection

Small to medium gear 2 bolts. I recomend tcu's 0-3.

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