Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Derek Pearson, Jon Nelson, July 10, 2012
Page Views: 3,839 total · 34/month
Shared By: Jon Nelson on Jul 11, 2012
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Description

This is the third pitch of An act of strange boar, a group of mysteries of frenchwoman, a ship called black rock, and a hatch. (But it also makes a great alternative 2nd pitch to Law and Order.)

Start in the short hand/layback crack directly above the anchor at the top of p1 of Law and Order, a little right of the top of a group of mysteries of frenchwoman. Move up to the corner (~5.9). Climb corner, using both the corner crack and the crack/edge on the right wall. One 5.10 move is getting past the bulge, another 5.10 section is just above the bulge. After that, it is 5.9 to the chained anchor.

There is an upper chained anchor that is better if you are continuing up Lookout Point. For rapping off or TRing, it may be better to use the lower chained anchor as the upper one may lead to a jammed rope.

Protection

For the bottom section, use a few hand-to-wide-hand sized cams and finger-sized nuts.

For the lower 2/3 of the corner, use small brass or wired nuts. The number 3-5 RP or largest 3 brass nuts are really useful as are thin-finger-sized nuts.

For the top 1/3, bring along a few finger-sized cams.

Photos