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Routes in Lookout Point

A Group of Mysteries of Frenchwoman T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A Hatch T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
A Ship Called Black Rock T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
An Act of Strange Boar T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
And Say T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Baby Tapir T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Below Lissen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bobcat Cringe T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bowling to Biscuits T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
He is Truly a Great Airplane (Hitaga) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
House of the 7th Bobcat T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Law and Order T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peanuts To Serve You T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Purple Kool-Aid T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rice Krispies T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Solitude T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Steel Pulse T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
This is Index Not L.A. T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Velvet Pedestal, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
You can cool Jack Robinson T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Derek Pearson, Jon Nelson, July 10, 2012
Page Views: 2,585 total, 39/month
Shared By: Jon Nelson on Jul 11, 2012
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

This is the third pitch of An act of strange boar, a group of mysteries of frenchwoman, a ship called black rock, and a hatch. (But it also makes a great alternative 2nd pitch to Law and Order.)

Start in the short hand/layback crack directly above the anchor at the top of p1 of Law and Order, a little right of the top of a group of mysteries of frenchwoman. Move up to the corner (~5.9). Climb corner, using both the corner crack and the crack/edge on the right wall. One 5.10 move is getting past the bulge, another 5.10 section is just above the bulge. After that, it is 5.9 to the chained anchor.

There is an upper chained anchor that is better if you are continuing up Lookout Point. For rapping off or TRing, it may be better to use the lower chained anchor as the upper one may lead to a jammed rope.

Protection

For the bottom section, use a few hand-to-wide-hand sized cams and finger-sized nuts.

For the lower 2/3 of the corner, use small brass or wired nuts. The number 3-5 RP or largest 3 brass nuts are really useful as are thin-finger-sized nuts.

For the top 1/3, bring along a few finger-sized cams.
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10d
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10d
I gave this a thorough scrubbing from top to bottom today. Bill and I were also cleaning the 2nd pitch of Law and Order.
Beware of Yellowjackets near the single bolt, big dead tree at top of 1st pitch of Law and Order, Bill found it the hard way. Sep 17, 2017
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
 
Hi Bill.

No, this is a different pitch. Law and Order is the large left-facing dihedral just left of Black Rock. If cleaned, that would be a great pitch. Aug 27, 2015
Is this the same as the second pitch of Law and Order in the Stanford Guide or is it a variation? Aug 27, 2015
wayne wallace
Seattle
wayne wallace   Seattle
really fun stem problem bring a couple tiny stoppers. worthwhile. Looks dirty, but isnt. Sep 28, 2014
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10d
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10d
Wow, the Ship called Black Rock is awesome. I scrubbed the starting area, both the right hand crack and left side finger layback which seems more direct and closer to the 5.10 grade. Jun 9, 2014
Ryan Hoover
  5.10c
Ryan Hoover  
  5.10c
Great climbing. Gave it a little cleaning on the way down, get on it. Jun 2, 2014
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
 
Hi Geoff,

The one you did must have been the last pitch of Derek's Lookout Point Direct. I thought though that it needed some bolts to safely lead (~5.8).

About the one on the left - I have TRed it, but not lead. That horizontal finger-crack is amazing! Then it turns the corner and becomes a nice hand crack that continues up and left. I hope to put in another bolt or two this summer, clean off the bottom, and lead the thing. May 23, 2014
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10d
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10d
Jon or Derek,
I was exploring below the flag at lookout point and climbed the route that looks like it was cleaned right of the V-thread. Fun face with knobs to pulling up on sketchy overlaps avoiding the scary flake and finger lock to hand jamb over bulge. Whats the route on the left with a bolt and horizontal traverse crack? In case you forgot, there is a pull saw and some chain up there. May 23, 2014