Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Derek Pearson, Jon Nelson, July 10, 2012
Page Views: 2,945 total · 35/month
Shared By: Jon Nelson on Jul 11, 2012
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure: Upper Cheeks Details

Description

This is the third pitch of An act of strange boar, a group of mysteries of frenchwoman, a ship called black rock, and a hatch. (But it also makes a great alternative 2nd pitch to Law and Order.)

Start in the short hand/layback crack directly above the anchor at the top of p1 of Law and Order, a little right of the top of a group of mysteries of frenchwoman. Move up to the corner (~5.9). Climb corner, using both the corner crack and the crack/edge on the right wall. One 5.10 move is getting past the bulge, another 5.10 section is just above the bulge. After that, it is 5.9 to the chained anchor.

There is an upper chained anchor that is better if you are continuing up Lookout Point. For rapping off or TRing, it may be better to use the lower chained anchor as the upper one may lead to a jammed rope.

Protection

For the bottom section, use a few hand-to-wide-hand sized cams and finger-sized nuts.

For the lower 2/3 of the corner, use small brass or wired nuts. The number 3-5 RP or largest 3 brass nuts are really useful as are thin-finger-sized nuts.

For the top 1/3, bring along a few finger-sized cams.
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10d
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10d
Jon or Derek,
I was exploring below the flag at lookout point and climbed the route that looks like it was cleaned right of the V-thread. Fun face with knobs to pulling up on sketchy overlaps avoiding the scary flake and finger lock to hand jamb over bulge. Whats the route on the left with a bolt and horizontal traverse crack? In case you forgot, there is a pull saw and some chain up there. May 23, 2014
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
  5.10c/d
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
  5.10c/d
Hi Geoff,

The one you did must have been the last pitch of Derek's Lookout Point Direct. I thought though that it needed some bolts to safely lead (~5.8).

About the one on the left - I have TRed it, but not lead. That horizontal finger-crack is amazing! Then it turns the corner and becomes a nice hand crack that continues up and left. I hope to put in another bolt or two this summer, clean off the bottom, and lead the thing. May 23, 2014
Ryan Hoover
Marysville, Wa
  5.10c
Ryan Hoover   Marysville, Wa
  5.10c
Great climbing. Gave it a little cleaning on the way down, get on it. Jun 2, 2014
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10d
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10d
Wow, the Ship called Black Rock is awesome. I scrubbed the starting area, both the right hand crack and left side finger layback which seems more direct and closer to the 5.10 grade. Jun 9, 2014
wayne wallace
Seattle
wayne wallace   Seattle
really fun stem problem bring a couple tiny stoppers. worthwhile. Looks dirty, but isnt. Sep 28, 2014
Is this the same as the second pitch of Law and Order in the Stanford Guide or is it a variation? Aug 27, 2015
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
  5.10c/d
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
  5.10c/d
Hi Bill.

No, this is a different pitch. Law and Order is the large left-facing dihedral just left of Black Rock. If cleaned, that would be a great pitch. Aug 27, 2015
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10d
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10d
I gave this a thorough scrubbing from top to bottom today. Bill and I were also cleaning the 2nd pitch of Law and Order.
Beware of Yellowjackets near the single bolt, big dead tree at top of 1st pitch of Law and Order, Bill found it the hard way. Sep 17, 2017
Jeremy Park
Seattle, WA
  5.10c/d
Jeremy Park   Seattle, WA
  5.10c/d
Man what a great pitch and worth climbing! The lay back section tends to seep so keep that in mind when climbing. Most of the hard moves I found easily protected with gear on the right wall and didn't feel like you necessarily needed super small nuts/brozens for this climb

PS:

The upper anchor had their hangers removed. Not sure if this was intentional but now the anchor is a little sketchy as it's just an untightened bolt/washer with chains. Jul 5, 2018
Ben Gilkison
Tacoma
Ben Gilkison   Tacoma
Loved this route!!! But so much easier than Steel Pulse. :-> Aug 26, 2018
Chris Culver
Seattle, WA
 
Chris Culver   Seattle, WA
 
Anchors are in great shape as of May 2019 May 8, 2019