Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 948 total · 12/month
Shared By: rob bauer on Jul 10, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details

Description

Another old trad route makes it onto MP! This is as good as Coffin Crack, IMHO, but different. It is not my route, but I did it today and judging from the list, this is RRV. There is an old #1 Friend hopelessly jammed deep in the crux near the top you get to work around. (The most frequently stuck size of those venerable cams.) Its rock quality is about the same as Coffin Crack. It may be 9+/10-, but let's see what the consensus says.

Location

This is about 20 feet right of Coffin Crack. I went up the left-facing corner arete to the crack. (The more direct crack to the right was wet.)

Protection

Trad gear, medium nuts and BD cams up to #3. Save a few finger sizes for the crux. I'd have liked maybe doubles to 0.5 to choose from, but we didn't have 'em. I anchored off the tree and equalized it with the #3 cam out left. It has a 3 minute walk-off.

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10
This is called "Climbing Sports" in the new guide by Kevin Capps and Matt Lloyd. Nov 27, 2014
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10
At the crux, the crack is 0.4 Camalot-sized. I placed mine earlier and wish I would have had two of them at the crux. Mar 18, 2015