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Routes in The Sports Wall

Balkan Dirt Diving T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beginner Sports T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Changing Corners Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coffin Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Don't Go Chasing Waterfalls S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Generation Gap S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Happiness of Pursuit S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
My Generation S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Number 5 Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pet Semetary T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rufus' Roof Variation aka Climbing Sports T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slabtastic T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 841 total, 13/month
Shared By: rob bauer on Jul 10, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Another old trad route makes it onto MP! This is as good as Coffin Crack, IMHO, but different. It is not my route, but I did it today and judging from the list, this is RRV. There is an old #1 Friend hopelessly jammed deep in the crux near the top you get to work around. (The most frequently stuck size of those venerable cams.) Its rock quality is about the same as Coffin Crack. It may be 9+/10-, but let's see what the consensus says.

Location

This is about 20 feet right of Coffin Crack. I went up the left-facing corner arete to the crack. (The more direct crack to the right was wet.)

Protection

Trad gear, medium nuts and BD cams up to #3. Save a few finger sizes for the crux. I'd have liked maybe doubles to 0.5 to choose from, but we didn't have 'em. I anchored off the tree and equalized it with the #3 cam out left. It has a 3 minute walk-off.

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10
At the crux, the crack is 0.4 Camalot-sized. I placed mine earlier and wish I would have had two of them at the crux. Mar 18, 2015
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10
This is called "Climbing Sports" in the new guide by Kevin Capps and Matt Lloyd. Nov 27, 2014