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Routes in Sandy Cove Area

Disneyesque T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Owl Be All Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Poke on Sunday T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Soak on Saturday T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surf Music S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad
FA: Gary Fike/Tonia Fike
Page Views: 106 total · 1/month
Shared By: Xavier Wasiak on Jul 9, 2012
Admins: Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Description

On the face between Disneyesque and the left facing large corner are a couple of cracks and very shallow corners/flakes that lead up and slightly to the right to join the big corner. The rock is loose but the climbing relatively safe. I did not find the anchor to this one and it appears that you could break left to reach the anchors of Disneyesque towards the top. I did not, until I had passed the anchors about 6-7 feet to my left and climbed harder territory, past an overhang and some blocks. Beware.

Location

Just to the left of the large corner, and to the right of disneyesque.

Protection

Good selection of gear up to #3, maybe a #4 BD. See above for word on anchors.

Photos

Kurt Howes  
 
I didn't find the anchor either and had a bit of an ordeal dealing with the loose rock above and no good place for a gear anchor higher up. Not a good walk-off. Thought about ducking left to anchors on "Disneyesque" but it didn't look prudent. The guide book shows anchors but I never saw em'. There is an excellent place for some though and I'll bring my drill next time; unless I'm missing something? Nov 11, 2013

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