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Routes in Sandy Cove Area

Disneyesque T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Owl Be All Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Poke on Sunday T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Soak on Saturday T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surf Music S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad
FA: Gary Fike/Tonia Fike
Page Views: 98 total · 1/month
Shared By: Xavier Wasiak on Jul 9, 2012
Admins: Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Description [Suggest Change]

On the face between Disneyesque and the left facing large corner are a couple of cracks and very shallow corners/flakes that lead up and slightly to the right to join the big corner. The rock is loose but the climbing relatively safe. I did not find the anchor to this one and it appears that you could break left to reach the anchors of Disneyesque towards the top. I did not, until I had passed the anchors about 6-7 feet to my left and climbed harder territory, past an overhang and some blocks. Beware.

Location [Suggest Change]

Just to the left of the large corner, and to the right of disneyesque.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Good selection of gear up to #3, maybe a #4 BD. See above for word on anchors.

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Kurt Howes  
 
I didn't find the anchor either and had a bit of an ordeal dealing with the loose rock above and no good place for a gear anchor higher up. Not a good walk-off. Thought about ducking left to anchors on "Disneyesque" but it didn't look prudent. The guide book shows anchors but I never saw em'. There is an excellent place for some though and I'll bring my drill next time; unless I'm missing something? Nov 11, 2013

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