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Bunker-Williams Route
5.5 PG13,
Sport, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches,
Avg: 3 from 6
votes
FA: Todd Leeds, Andy Agardy
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Big Cottonwood…
> Mt Raymond Slabs
Description
The top of the route is marked with a sling around a large pine tree, this is the uppermost anchor. Rappel the route. 5 rappels approximately 100' each lead to the base. We did the raps/route with a 70m rope, but a 60-meter rope should work
Any two pitches can be combined. We combined 1 & 2 and 3 & 4.
The route was named in honor of Raymond Bunker and Steve Williams.
Location
The route climbs the left-hand side of the uppermost slab.
The walk out from the base of the route past the bottom of the Raymond Glade is not recommended.
Protection
All pitches have double bolt anchors and 2 protection bolts except for the 2nd which has 3. The route may feel run out for a 5.5 leader. One of the bolts on top of the 4th pitch is a spinner.
[Hide Photo] Looking down from the slung tree at the top. You can just barely make out the white helmet of my belayer, who is standing at the chains at the top of Pitch 3.
[Hide Photo] When the bushwhack ends, the boulder hopping begins.
[Hide Photo] First glimpse of the Mt. Raymond slabs.
[Hide Comment] -60m works. Link pitches 2&3 (best pitches) and 4&5 because the belays have ledges for standing. Pitch 5 belay is not comfy. -Get to summit Raymond + 500 ft of cool limestone slab climbing. -Bring webbing for tree on top to start the rap (still missing)
Aug 28, 2013
Buddy and I did it thinking it was similar to slabbin Mt. Olympus west slabs, or maybe the Millstone Slab. It was not. For reference, it was quite a bit steeper than either of those, and significantly more draining. There are very few places to take a rest.
A lot of plants are growing in the cracks of the climb. Half of them will leave thorns in your hand. Stay to the left for the best route.
From the Top we just hiked up to the top of Raymond and followed the trail down.
Oct 1, 2018
[Hide Comment] Quite a unique little multi-pitch sport climb. Climbed with 3 teens who thought it was an epic day. The bushwhacking approach is pretty heinous, but builds character. The climb itself is very easy slab (5.5 is accurate). The climbing alone is not really worth the approach, but, viewed as an alpine adventure mixed with a gentle introduction to route-finding and multi-pitch climbing, it is a really neat route. Perfect for teens who need a bit of humility and toughening up! Thanks to the person who took the time and energy to bolt this route.
The route is definitely run out, but I never felt uncomfortable as a leader because the climbing is so easy. Two bolts, one on pitch 2 and one on pitch 3, have somehow been bent downward to the extent that a quickdraw can't quite be put in, which increases the runout on those pitches. They could possibly be bent back out with the right tool and leverage (big screwdriver). Pitch 5 only has one bolt, toward the right of the anchors on top of pitch 4. This final pitch has some dust/dirt on the slab which makes it a bit more slippery, and this is the only section I would have appreciated one more bolt. Be sure to bring a very long piece of webbing to sling the tree (~15 ft); I only had short pieces and was able to sling a stout root with those, but would have felt a bit more comfortable with a longer sling around the trunk of the tree.
We did have two mountain goats kick some rocks down on us, so helmets are recommended. We did not have the problem with thorny vegetation that Nate Kes describes above--could be seasonal.
Jul 25, 2019
[Hide Comment] I climbed this route today, and on the second pitch, the last two bolts were flattened so I couldn't clip my draw to it or even girth hitch a sling around it. It's easy climbing but expect the second pitch to be really runout since the first bolt is the only usable bolt. I had some walnuts but there really isn't anywhere to put them so I just climbed up to the anchor.
There was a sling at the top, but I doesn't have a quick link if you are trying to rappel the route. I'd recommend just hiking up to the summit and back down the trail.
For reference, this route is about as steep as the west slabs, but there aren't big jugs everywhere. I soloed the west slabs but I decided not to solo this route, which I felt like was a good move in the end.
Jul 29, 2020
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Not sure how it disappeared. Jun 23, 2013
-Get to summit Raymond + 500 ft of cool limestone slab climbing.
-Bring webbing for tree on top to start the rap (still missing) Aug 28, 2013
Salt Lake City
Buddy and I did it thinking it was similar to slabbin Mt. Olympus west slabs, or maybe the Millstone Slab. It was not. For reference, it was quite a bit steeper than either of those, and significantly more draining. There are very few places to take a rest.
A lot of plants are growing in the cracks of the climb. Half of them will leave thorns in your hand. Stay to the left for the best route.
From the Top we just hiked up to the top of Raymond and followed the trail down. Oct 1, 2018
The route is definitely run out, but I never felt uncomfortable as a leader because the climbing is so easy. Two bolts, one on pitch 2 and one on pitch 3, have somehow been bent downward to the extent that a quickdraw can't quite be put in, which increases the runout on those pitches. They could possibly be bent back out with the right tool and leverage (big screwdriver). Pitch 5 only has one bolt, toward the right of the anchors on top of pitch 4. This final pitch has some dust/dirt on the slab which makes it a bit more slippery, and this is the only section I would have appreciated one more bolt. Be sure to bring a very long piece of webbing to sling the tree (~15 ft); I only had short pieces and was able to sling a stout root with those, but would have felt a bit more comfortable with a longer sling around the trunk of the tree.
We did have two mountain goats kick some rocks down on us, so helmets are recommended. We did not have the problem with thorny vegetation that Nate Kes describes above--could be seasonal. Jul 25, 2019
There was a sling at the top, but I doesn't have a quick link if you are trying to rappel the route. I'd recommend just hiking up to the summit and back down the trail.
For reference, this route is about as steep as the west slabs, but there aren't big jugs everywhere. I soloed the west slabs but I decided not to solo this route, which I felt like was a good move in the end. Jul 29, 2020