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Routes in Pointless Crag

11 O'clock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
4-Alarm Fire S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
5.8 Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Alien Pod S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bicycle Thief, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Bear S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Betty S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Disappearing Hat Trick S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Goat Meal S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Head on a Silver Platypus S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hoppe Hill S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hungry Eyes S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Hustle and Flow S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Orbit S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rock-in My Sports Bra S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sleepwalker S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stingray S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Team Trailer S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
What's the Point? S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 25 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 751 total, 11/month
Shared By: Jaren Watson on Jul 9, 2012
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


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Description

Short and sweet. Interesting feature with great sidepulls. Big holds the whole way. Gets steeper as you go up.

Location

Farthest route on the right.

Protection

4 bolts to sport anchors.

Photos

Jaren Watson
Boise, Idaho
 
Jaren Watson   Boise, Idaho
 
Waltpacker, I'm a fan of consensus building by the community to determine a route's grade, but we ought to form our opinions based on reasonable standards. One of which is that steepness can affect difficulty but is definitely not the only factor. No overhung 5.7s? Just because you don't know of any doesn't mean they don't exist. I'm sure climbers up and down the east coast would smile at this assertion and supply a list of dozens upon dozens of 5.5 and 5.6 climbs significantly steeper than Alien Pod. Closer to home, Mystery Achievement at the City has an overhung finish and the hundreds of ticks that route's received call it 5.7. Every aspect of that route is more difficult than Alien Pod, though not by much.
I agree this route's features are weird/unique, but that doesn't translate into difficult climbing in this case. The holds are huge! I mean monumentally huge. I can't think of a single 5.7 I've climbed anywhere that's easier than this route.
I totally respect your opinion, but I resist a definitive statement like "not a 5.7 lead for sure."
At any rate, l hope you enjoyed climbing at Pointless. Cheers. Jun 6, 2017
waltpacker Packer
Logan, UT
  5.8
waltpacker Packer   Logan, UT
  5.8
Very weird for a 5.7(I would say it's a solid 5.8). The route is overhung, and I don't know any other climb rated 5.7 that is overhung. Not a 5.7 lead for sure. Fun, but weird, short. Jun 6, 2017
Agree with 5.7. Little bit of an overhang which could be a challenge for some 5.7 climbers, but the holds are solid. Watch out for snakes, I came face to face with a rattlesnake at the top. Jun 13, 2016
Chris Rix
Irwin, ID
  5.7
Chris Rix   Irwin, ID
  5.7
I'm the beginner these other guys are referencing... That being said I didn't think it was to bad to clean up this route. The last move to get into a spot where I could hook into the anchors kicked my butt, I had to mess with it for a few minutes before I figured out how to brace my leg in one of those big pockets toward the top. I thought it was a fun route. Apr 26, 2016
Justin Brunson
Broomfield CO
  5.6
Justin Brunson   Broomfield CO
  5.6
I don't think weirdness adds difficulty. 5.7 offwidth can feel like 5.10 until you learn how to climb OW.. I think the same applies to alien nesting sites. Apr 4, 2014
Jaren Watson
Boise, Idaho
 
Jaren Watson   Boise, Idaho
 
I agree with Derrick. Enormous holds with easy movement and plenty of rest. 5.7. I could see the argument for 5.6. Sure, it's a little bit steep, but the grade should reflect both how difficult it is to onsight, the difficulty of the movement, and the size and kind of holds. In these respects, Alien Pod is a nice easy climb. Cleaning certainly impacts the experience but has no relation to the grade. Jun 6, 2013
Derrick Hales
  5.7
Derrick Hales  
  5.7
It is tricky for those beginners, but once you know the sequence its easily no harder than a 5.7. you can bust a sweet knee bar to clip the chains or take a rest.
super cool view from this route. Sep 3, 2012
Great lead! Nice and short. I would say 5.8 for sake of the last movement to the anchors. Kind of a pain to clean for beginners. Jul 26, 2012