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Routes in North Wall

Diamond Slipper S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fragile Life S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Intrigue S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Joy Luck Club S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Membership Expired S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sin and Redemption S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Straight, No Chaser S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: David Tvedt, 2001
Page Views: 1,558 total · 20/month
Shared By: j-dubs on Jul 8, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

After a short slab and bulge, launch into a relentless overhang, traversing right (crux?) about six bolts up. The first half features relatively straightforward reaches between good underclings and sidepulls, while the second half has far more holds to choose between, making it easy to get off track. Savor any holds you can pull down on, because there aren't many of them!

There is an optional 5.7 second pitch that tops out.

Location

JLC is on the right hand side of the overhanging wall. It has chains on two of its bolts and a rightward traverse about halfway up.

You can easily set a toprope on this route. Hike to the top and rappel off a pair of glue-ins (the correct anchor is just below a large bent cold shut) down to the lip of the overhang, where there are two sets of anchors next to each other. The JLC anchor is the one that's to the right and slightly lower, and it's directly across from a tall fir tree. If you set a TR, make sure to put in lots of directionals, as the route traverses a decent amount in addition to being overhung.

Protection

Bolts (about 9), two-bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

j-dubs
Ann Arbor, MI
  5.12a
j-dubs   Ann Arbor, MI
  5.12a
Disclaimer: I haven't sent this route yet, but I've been on it a number of times and it's too good to be left out of the database! Jul 9, 2012
twellman
Cambridge
  5.12a
twellman   Cambridge
  5.12a
This is one excellent sport climb. Hard almost all of the way, multiple cruxes and rests, super well bolted, and great to project. Get on it if you're up there! Sep 22, 2013
Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
 
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
 
Out of curiosity what's the reason for the chain on the two bolts on this route? Jul 16, 2016

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