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Morning Desire

5.10a, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 28 votes
FA: Walt Corvington, 1990
Oregon > Willamette Valley > Flagstone > (g) Lower Walt's Wall

Description

Another slabby climb using friction and edges. The crux comes near the top, as the route heads left to the same ledge that High Noon finishes on.

Location

Just to the right of High Noon (see beta photo on the Walt's Wall area page). Look for a line of bolts with homemade angle iron hangers.

Protection

5 bolts to chain anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Red: Solar Evening (5.10a);
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Orange: Afterglow (5.11a);
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Yellow: Afternoon Delight (5.8);
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Green: High Noon (5.8);
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Blue: Morning Desire (5.10a);
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Purple: Walt's Wall (5.10b)
[Hide Photo] Red: Solar Evening (5.10a); Orange: Afterglow (5.11a); Yellow: Afternoon Delight (5.8); Green: High Noon (5.8); Blue: Morning Desire (5.10a); Purple: Walt's Wall (5.10b)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brenna Leech
Eugene, OR
  5.10a PG13
[Hide Comment] Just ran this accidentally as my first ever lead climb. A similar start to the neighboring High Noon, which means it's really easy to pass on by HN and wander right over onto Morning Desire. Very slabby, but with a fair amount of crimps to snag into. Get comfy on the wall because you're likely to spend a fair bit of time puzzling out the beta as your fingers slowly cramp. I threw a few stronger moves, following a bulge on the right to counterbalance, but ended up in an almost splits once or twice. There's one or two rests, but a strong calf workout for the shorties. Fun to finish, not as fun to climb, because most of it is you spitting on the wall. Anchors off the left, with rap rings. Climb before noon or after 5, blistering hot in the afternoon. Jul 18, 2020
Vania W
Eugene, OR
 
[Hide Comment] Cryptic for 10a. Really fun climb. Nov 22, 2021