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Routes in Shakers

Butter Knife T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Dark Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Going Down to Harlem with a Turd in My Shorts S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Joint Effort S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Gremlins T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nightman Cometh, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pointy Little Devil S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Salt and Pepper Shaker T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Skid Marks S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Troll Toll T,S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Where You Been?! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Mike Engle and Linda Schneider 1987-ground up
Page Views: 150 total, 2/month
Shared By: Rich F. on Jul 8, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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The first half of this route is "trad" going up two small finger/hand cracks (layback) stacked on each other (see photo). Above the top crack there are two bolts -- well placed, but far enough apart to give the route a little bit of a spice feel. Above the second bolt, one can also clip the anchors to the route on the right (Skid Marks, 5.10) as one more piece of protection before going the last 12 feet to the Gremlin anchors. I enjoyed the "mixed" feel of the route going from trad layback cracks to face climbing on crystals.


Approach as for "Pointy Devil"
This route starts 20 feet right of "Going Down to Harlem" and about 50 feet left (uphill) of "Pointy Devil" on the same wall. There appears to be another sport route (Skid Marks, 5.10?) sandwiched between Little Gremlins and Pointy Devil. The Little Gremlins route is easily identified by the two stacked cracks shown in the photo.


Small to medium cams (up to about a BD #1) for the two cracks
2 bolts
chain anchor