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Routes in The Early Bird Crag

Angry Birds S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Buzzards over Lexington S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cockadoodle Don't S 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Cockadoodle Doo S 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Eagle Tenders S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eagle's Nest S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Early Bird Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Edge of Glory, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Falcon and Gulo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fast Times at Wolverine High S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Here Comes The Turkey S 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Holes In The Universe S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
In cobble we trust S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
King Cobble S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Percolator, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pullet Interrupted S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raven Ridge S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Return of the Drillslingers S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rib Cage S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Silt in the Saddle Stitching S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Son of Cobble S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunshine on My Shoulder S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Super Chicken S 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Tweetie the Condor S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yankee Doodle Arch S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yankee Magpie S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Yankee Strikes Again, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 250 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Darren and Jennifer Knezek, Matt Selman
Page Views: 1,633 total, 25/month
Shared By: C Hopwood on Jul 8, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Need a Maple Canyon hero pic for your collection? This is the perfect route for you!

P1- This is the crux pitch with a very steep and powerful start. The crux comes after the 4th bolt, when you are forced onto a short sequence of two tiny crimps and committing moves. You can also chicken out and do Eagle Tenders to the right and join the second pitch of the climb. 30M of 5.10c
P2- Clip the bolt between the anchors of Eagle's Nest and Eagle Tenders and continue upwards on huge holds. 15M of 5.8
P3- Easy climbing on huge holds. Only a few bolts. 15M of 5.6
P4- Easy but unprotected jaunt across the top of the formation and two gullies, past two bolts to the summit block. Belay from a two bolt belay for the last few moves. 15M of 5.0
P5- Pull a bulge onto the summit block and pose for pictures! 20ft of 5.9

Descent: Rap X3. Rap from the 5th chains to the third chains. Then rap from the 3rd to the first chains, and once more to the ground. All with one 60m rope. This is by far the chossiest climb I've done in Maple so be prepared. The belay stations are in good locations to miss falling rock but still bring a helmet and be incredibly careful. You pass through several seams of rotten rock. If you've climbed at Maple much, you will recognize them. It will be many more ascents before this route cleans up. When it does clean up, it will be a fun route and worth it for the view alone.

Location

This is the first route you pass, on the far left side of the wall.

Protection

12 quickdraws to chains + slings and lockers.

Photos

Aiden O
 
Aiden O  
 
Great Route! First pitch was definitely a challenge. Cruised for a few more, then enjoyed the last pitch (money pitch!). I would recommend linking P4 and P5, we did it comfortably with a 70. Nov 1, 2017
Mason Stone
Boise, ID
 
Mason Stone   Boise, ID
 
Do the 10c first pitch, worth it even if you hang as being tired makes the next two pitches more of a challenge and more fun. Loose rock, careful as somebody may be below after the second pitch as it wanders to the right. Top out is awesome, great view. Oct 25, 2017
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
Doing the 5.9 start to the right is much more inline with the rest of this climb and is just as good quality wise. Combine pitches 2 & 3 easily as they are both short. Not sure why the guide gives the last pitch 3 stars as its once move off the ground and then over. Worth doing for the views though! Oct 2, 2017
AlexGreen
  5.10c
AlexGreen  
  5.10c
The first half of the first pitch gives this one the grade. Bouldery start to a pumpy headwall. Bring your sunscreen, as this thing gets lots of it! Apr 28, 2015
EricV Volk
Woodbury, MN
 
EricV Volk   Woodbury, MN
 
This climb is awesome. My first sport multi-pitch and it got me hooked. My partner and I got to the top and had nothing but smiles as we looked around the canyon. Didn't notice too much choss, but there are always pebbles falling. We did this a couple summers ago, and I'm planning a trip down there, hoping to get some friends on it as well! The scrample (P4) is interesting, but the first couple pitches are awesome, and the last 3 move boulder problem is fun! Feb 19, 2015