Type: | Sport, 165 ft |
FA: | Bill Soule, 2010 |
Page Views: | 231 total · 3/month |
Shared By: | j-dubs on Jul 8, 2012 |
Admins: | Nate Ball, Micah Klesick |
Description
This is a newer route that is not in the Orton guidebook.
Climb up through underclings and smeary feet to a balancy crux around the third bolt. After a small bulge, the route moves up and left, following a vast slab for another 100+ feet. The slab features much easier climbing than the start but offers plenty of opportunities to blow it. When the angle kicks back even more, belay from a pair of old bolts (these are also the top anchors for Apache Acid) or scramble about 30 feet higher and belay from a pair of glue-ins. It took almost all of a 70m rope to reach the glue-ins, so I'm not sure whether you could go that far on a 60m.
A new intermediate anchor has been added, providing the option of climbing the steeper bottom section and skipping about half of the slab.
Climb up through underclings and smeary feet to a balancy crux around the third bolt. After a small bulge, the route moves up and left, following a vast slab for another 100+ feet. The slab features much easier climbing than the start but offers plenty of opportunities to blow it. When the angle kicks back even more, belay from a pair of old bolts (these are also the top anchors for Apache Acid) or scramble about 30 feet higher and belay from a pair of glue-ins. It took almost all of a 70m rope to reach the glue-ins, so I'm not sure whether you could go that far on a 60m.
A new intermediate anchor has been added, providing the option of climbing the steeper bottom section and skipping about half of the slab.
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